Ok after one of my brake lines rotted away I decided to replace them all with stainless lines. The jeep sat for about 3 weeks (long story) until I finished everything. I bled the system very well, went through the whole sequence twice starting at the rear pass drum and working towards the drivers front caliper. No air bubbles at all, ran a ton of fresh fluid through. The pedal is still soft and has a lot of travel. The strength of the brakes is about the same as before, with 35 in tires, it sucks...lol. I don't remember if the pedal was much better.before. the jeep is a 97 with abs, the abs fuses are pulled. When I did that, it didn't affect anything. In the spring I plan to fix the abs and swap in an 8.8 rear. But is a sort of softish pedal normal? What else can I do to help this. I am going to make sure that the rear shoes are adjusted tonight.
soft brake pedal
- Thread starter joeylead
- Start date
PoliceMonkey161
New member
Did you bench bleed the master? Sometimes you'll need to open the poppet on the protioning valve.
I didn't bench bleed the master, I probably should have done that since the system did run dry. I also don't know how to...lol. I guess I skipped it since I have done similar things on several different vehicles and never had to touch the master. I also thought that if there was air still trapped, it would get firm when I pumped the brakes. But I also didn't do anything with the proportioning valve, I didn't see any fittings on it, I'll have to check that. I mean they still work about the same. I honestly don't remember if there was a similar amount of travel before I did all of this. The pedal is far from being on the floor, I can easily still fit my foot under it when I fully depress the pedal.
PoliceMonkey161
New member
You can get a bench bleeding kit from most auto parts stores (it's just 2 plastic threaded hose barb fittings and 2 short pieces of hose) or of you have the old brake lines, you can cut them about 5-6" below the threaded ferrules and carefully bend them back to the fluid reservoir. You basically just pump the pedal over and over to recirculate the fluid. Normally this is done when you replace the master and is done on a bench and vise prior to installation. Since you completely removed the line you may have an air bubble trapped in the piston.
As the proportioning valve, there is a poppet (small knob looking thing on one end) that you're going gently pull outward prior to bleeding the rest of the system. You can use a small flat blade screw driver to hold it open. This will more or less de-proportion the valve for bleeding.
As the proportioning valve, there is a poppet (small knob looking thing on one end) that you're going gently pull outward prior to bleeding the rest of the system. You can use a small flat blade screw driver to hold it open. This will more or less de-proportion the valve for bleeding.
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