CJ7/chevy help

gregearn

New member
Hi
New user here and boy do I need help.I picked up a 83 CJ7 that someone had swapped a 350 Chevy into. The dash was out and the wiring all over the place. I bought a manual and finished most of the wiring. (I think). The problem is I am not sure how to finish in the engine compartment. Distibutor,alternator,solonoid etc. It does have the HEI distibutor. Any help would be appreciated.
Greg
 

If the wiring looks like it is a hoge poge mess of chevy and jeep, and if your wiring skills are not great, might be best to simply start from scratch by getting a Painless kit and going from there. you will spend a lot of hours tracing wires and seeing what goes where.
 
Go painless, i rebuilt a 78 trans am the "chase the wires way" id rather have a but kicking than do that again! I use painless on my cj talk about a whole different sport well worth the money
 
Thanks guys for the info. The thing is, I have all the dash rewired. I have chased the wires down, so to speak.The only issue I have now is:
How to run the wires for:
Alternator
Starter
Solonoid

It has taken me a long time but I hate to yank all the wiring out again if I don't have to. So close
 

What kind of alternator are you using? I have a CS-130/CS-144 style alternator in my Bowtie powered CJ-7. The engine is a 2000 Vortec with 1991 TBI junkyard injection I robbed off my Suburban that was parted out for Jeep parts. It is super easy to wire up and even easier to fool into upping the system voltage so your accessories run better.

On my Jeep the wire I used on the GM starter was the original one that went to the fender mounted Ford style solenoid. I took the second terminal that bypassed/removed the resistor wire out because GM uses straight 12V to power the coil on HEI ignition systems.

If you have a factory wiring diagram for your CJ-7, the exact wire number is # 13F, it comes out of the firewall and is one of the two wires that powered the DuraSpark Ford ignition module. That is the 12V from the ignition side of the key and will work for your Distributor.

Use wire # 14A (light Blue) from the firewall that originally went to the solenoid terminal on the left side (ignition "Crank" Hot side), to your small terminal on the GM starter. This will engage your solenoid when you turn the key to "Start".

Use wire from terminal 78 on the Alternator. This has a short piece of Nichrome resistance wire in it and will work to power 10 & 12 SI alternators as is with no modification. If you are using a CS-130 or CS-140 Like I do, use this wire and tie it to the "L" terminal on the regulator. Tie the Battery terminal to the "S" terminal if used on the regulator plug. If you want to put a "Charge" lamp in, use pin "F" as the ground side of the lamp and the hot side goes to the ignition.

This ought get you running with no issues.

For additional information on GM ALTERNATORS & OLD JEEPS Especially SJ body vehicles click here Joe writes WAAAAYYYY MORE info than the average Jeeper needs to know about GM Alternators in the SI & CS families but it's valuable information from another smart Jeeper!


Rick
 
What kind of alternator are you using? I have a CS-130/CS-144 style alternator in my Bowtie powered CJ-7. The engine is a 2000 Vortec with 1991 TBI junkyard injection I robbed off my Suburban that was parted out for Jeep parts. It is super easy to wire up and even easier to fool into upping the system voltage so your accessories run better.

On my Jeep the wire I used on the GM starter was the original one that went to the fender mounted Ford style solenoid. I took the second terminal that bypassed/removed the resistor wire out because GM uses straight 12V to power the coil on HEI ignition systems.

If you have a factory wiring diagram for your CJ-7, the exact wire number is # 13F, it comes out of the firewall and is one of the two wires that powered the DuraSpark Ford ignition module. That is the 12V from the ignition side of the key and will work for your Distributor.

Use wire # 14A (light Blue) from the firewall that originally went to the solenoid terminal on the left side (ignition "Crank" Hot side), to your small terminal on the GM starter. This will engage your solenoid when you turn the key to "Start".

Use wire from terminal 78 on the Alternator. This has a short piece of Nichrome resistance wire in it and will work to power 10 & 12 SI alternators as is with no modification. If you are using a CS-130 or CS-140 Like I do, use this wire and tie it to the "L" terminal on the regulator. Tie the Battery terminal to the "S" terminal if used on the regulator plug. If you want to put a "Charge" lamp in, use pin "F" as the ground side of the lamp and the hot side goes to the ignition.

This ought get you running with no issues.

For additional information on GM ALTERNATORS & OLD JEEPS Especially SJ body vehicles click here Joe writes WAAAAYYYY MORE info than the average Jeeper needs to know about GM Alternators in the SI & CS families but it's valuable information from another smart Jeeper!


Rick

couldn't ask for a better answer than that Rick. OP should be able to run with that info
 
couldn't ask for a better answer than that Rick. OP should be able to run with that info


Hey thanks for the kind words there Doubledrop!
I know what it's like to be buried up to my elbows in old Jeep wiring especially when it's been frankensteined for an engine conversion It can be very intimidating. Fortunately GM accessory wiring is fairly straight forward.

Rick
 

well, buying a project jeep myself, and may consider the 350 transplant as well. will def keep you name handy :lol: may see PMs heading your way
 
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