Frame Rust

JohnnyO

New member
I'm talking rust inside the frame. There appears to be rust flakes about 1/4" deep inside the frame. I worry about it holding water and causing more rust. Any way to get it out, or just drill some holes in the bottom of the frame so they wash out? I'm not crazy about drilling holes in the frame.

Thanks.
 

That's big time cancer, sorry but I thinks it grave for the frame...or cut an weld new 3/4 iron
 
I don't know about a wrangler but a CJ's frame is only .150 on the outside channel [not even 3/16th"] and .125 on the inside. If it's flaked out a 1/4"[.250] it's pretty bad. How thick are the wrangler frames?
 
This isn't the first time this topic has come up on this forum. Some guys like to drill holes to drain the water, others cut and weld or my personal favorite......shoot it up with oil on either side. Actually despite my sarcasm I like that because it's easy and cheap. keeps away most rust while I spend my money on cooler jeep stuff lol.


But seriously if you want to fix the problem you got a lot of work ahead of you. You gotta pull the frame out to cut and weld patch all the spots.
Honestly, now that I think about it it sounds kinda fun. I might do that this summer.
 

I had to replace the frame on my 97 TJ 2 years ago and that was even with it sittin in the garage 2 winters (protected from road salt) because I was under a "no manual transmission" restriction from, a Dr for 18 months in fall '07 til spring 09.....
I discovered the bad frame while sitting, and getting it road ready after its hibernation.... I had noticed the frrame filling up with scale like a year before I got hurt (and the Jeep's "hibernation")
I found a frame on CL from a 99 that had been garage stored since like 2001, the guy had bought the frame for some future planned project that never happened; and I sold my old one to someone that needed a pass side rail (since that one was fine, my problem was the driver side right ahead of the rear axle hump)
these frames do pop up on CL, thats where I found mine; it loooked funny with the body hanging from the garage rafters by 2 chain-falls; I set it on sawhorses while I swapped the drivetrain from one frame to the other and took the chance to coat my whole underbody with Dupli Color truck bed coating; I was under it this past week for a clutch job and the Dupli color is holding up great.
 
There aren't any holes in the frame and it seems pretty thick and solid. I was just looking at a way to get the scale out and drain any water to keep it from getting worse. I guess I'll drill some holes. Thanks.
 
i had plates welded on mine about 2 months ago. i just used like quarter inch thick plates i stole from elevator guys at my work and patched over quick fix but not to long term probly:/
 

ooh boy; I saw scale inside my frame, going up past the holes in the sidewalls of the frame right behind where the running board mount is; you can stick your finger in and feel the buildup;
The way I discovered really how bad mine was, a couple ways.
Back in about '06, I had to have a new cat put on; the exh shop pulled the skidplate and spun the rivet nuts within the frame when they pulled it; I had put the 1st clutch in this thing in like 04, and anti seized all the bolts, so I was quite surprised. All 3 on one side and one on the other did this; the ex shop wound up cutting the heads off some 1/2" bolts and welding them on so that they could put nuts on to hold my skidplate/cross member back on. Lots of comments back then along the lines of "HOW old is this thing"? they could not believe it and directed me back to the dealer to check on the possibility of a recall from it; "bad batch" of steel possibly.... I came up empty there.
Then I got hurt in Sept 07 and had to park the Jeep; as it sat I pulled the wheel well flares and running boards to get them painted; I went to pull the back mount on the driver side and got a huce chunk of metal with one of the bolts; I wound up cutting a larger hole into the frame so I could get a 1-1/4" shop vac hose inside and beat on the outside of the frame with a ball pein to jar everything possible, loose from the innards so I could vacuum it out; my thoughts were that that scale could be doing no good, all it would do would be to hold moisture like a sponge and speed up the rust process; so I figured I had to get it out; so when I got as much out as possible I cut a patch and welded it into the frame and ground it smooth; I cut a hole in the same spot on the pass. side and did the vacuum treatment; that side was less than half-as-bad.
Well since the Dr still said I could not drive a stick, it sat.
I went to get it out in Spring of '09, and when I went to reinstall the running boards, I gave the whole frame a once over and found another soft spot on the driver side, so I decided, that was "it"; I would locate another frame if I had to buy one from one of these aftermarket companies that builds stronger ones for hard core off road; I'd found a couple for $1200-1500.
Meanwhile I kept an eye on Ebay and C-List and found one about 80 miles away on C list. So I went and got it, completely stripped the orig frame bare and reassembled everything to the new frame.
My son was about to get his licens for the 1st time, and knowing that having driven myself for 25 years at that point, that i may not be able to handle it if the frame went (hard telling exactly "when" something like that would "go", I sure didn't want my zero experience son in it when it went either.
Knowing that w/a bad frame it was basically worth "nothing" to sell, and that I had had it for 9 years at that point and that it remains THE most expensive vehicle I have ever bought, the engine and remaining drive train had only about 83K miles at that point, and I had no idea if my "next one" might have the same issues, I decided to spend about 2 weeks in my garage and lift the body off, dismantle the whole thing and reassemble it to the new frame.
I'm certainly glad I did it. I had some other things going on, I could not work "constantly" on the swap. If I could have it would not have been a 2 week process.

and then the 1st time out driving it in 18 months, I managed to run into an a-whole cop that decided to sting me w/a speeding ticket; on the way to pick up temporary insurance cards from my agent, no less, since I just re instated it like 2 hours before, that morning over the phone.......
 
you need an undercoating nozzle that sprays radially. the kind they use in inner panels. then spray the frame rail insides with oil.
 
TJ frames are very prone to rot, I've repaired a couple TJ's, specifically arounf the frame end of the rear control arms. use a small ended ball peen hammer and start wacking the frame. if you go through, start replacing the metal. it's not that bad of work, but it is time consuming and will require welding.

If you go the new to you frame thing, eastwoods sells a rust converter, in the past we've taped up all teh holes in the frame except for one and pour a quart of this stuff into the frame and tilt and roll the frame in various directions to get the inside of the frame coated. it's not 100% but cheap insurance and better then nothing.

if you are looking for aftermarket frame, Throttle Down Customs is the only way to go.
 

I bought a pair of uber-tough drill bits, one for pilot holes and one 1/2", I'll put two holes in each side and run a hose in to try and flush out the rust. Frame seems solid and I already painted the outside of it with POR-15 last year. I'm just trying to keep it from getting any worse and rusting from the inside out.
 
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