Lift Questions

Bailey2oo4

New member
Okay guys...I have 74 cj5 stock height with 31s. I want to add a Skyjacker 4" suspension lift and 35s. What other hidden costs or parts (i.e. cv driveshafts) will I incur? I just don't want to purchase my lift and have to leave it in the box for months while I gather all the other necessary parts for the lift. Thanks for the expert advice in advance.
 

You'll probably be able to throw the lift on there and be fine, but here are some possible things you'll need:

- longer brake lines
- new shackles or bolts (if your equipment is rusted / frozen and you have to cut them off)
- longer / CV driveshaft

If your driveshaft doesn't cut it (you need a CV or the stock is too short) then you'll most likely be able to lower the transfer case (many kits come with a transfer case drop, or you could use washers) until you get a new one made.
 
with a 4" lift on a short cj5 you will need longer driveshafts (not nessisarily a CV shaft, just a stock replacment will be fine). Your local 4x4 shop should have used ones laying around for the cheap. You will also need a 1" tcase drop, and probably shims in the rear which should come with the kit, longer steetbraided brake lines should come with the kit as well.
 

In addition to the hydraulic brake lines, you'll also need to replace the emergency brake cables. If you haven't changed the transmission your front drive shaft will probably be ok.
 
Just did a 4" lift on a 76 cj5 and if you don't lengthen the ecables they will pull on when you flex out. If you stay on road you'd probably be ok.
 

Here is my advice based on my experience with CJ5 and lifting.

To fit 35's, my prefered lift is 2.5" YJ lift springs. I also prefer to put about 1-1.5" of stretch into the wheel base in each direction. you can do this a number of ways, I like to cut off the frame mounts, move them the desired amount of stretch. on the shackle end, you can usually get away with just a slightly longer shackle to make the stretch work. with a really soft spring that squats a lot I find flipping the shackle mounts to work well and maintain a good shackle angle.

Basically you will be able to fit a 35" tire with less lift and the tire won't get into the fender and tub. you will have to trim a little but not too much.
 
Here is what I had to do on my 74' CJ-5..I also had 35's on it as well. Longer brake lines, shims front and rear ( for pinion angle ), front driveshaft was ok to reuse, rear driveshaft replaced with a cv type and I still dropped the t-case 1" to keep the shim thickness at a minimum.
 
I was under the jeep yesterday mounting strikers plates for a backseat and got to looking...i think i may already have a cv shaft...it has knuckles and pivots on both ends. And i know i have steel braided break lines just won't know if they are long enough til i lift it. I noticed that cv shafts come in many different lengths...so if i do have to replace, any ideas what length i should look for?
 

Any chance you can post a photo of your driveshaft?
 
To really get the correct size shaft you need to try and compress the rear suspension and measure from you trany output to the rearend yoke, then try to let the rearend droop and measure again. You will need a driveshaft that will slide in and out within those measurements.
 

I have a 73 cj5 with 6" skyjacker. I suggest a drop pitman arm. They are pretty easy to find. I left my brake lines. The brackets need to be lowered but I haven't gotten around to it. I did add on to my front drive shaft. Rear was OK because I rolled the rear end. I run 38" swampers on mine. Just a little rub on front drivers side when turning sharp to left.
 
Lift kit comes with a new pitman arm....what do u mean u rolled the rear end?


instead of putting shims in, you cut the spring perches off the axle and tilt the rearend to improve the ujoint angle on the driveshaft, then reweld the perches back onto the rearend. Its better than using shims but you better know what you are doing if you are going to weld on the axle tubes, You can weaken the tubes if you dont.
 

It doesn't hurt to roll the front end also when going any higher than a 6. I have a spare front end for my 73 CJ 5 that is rolled.
 
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