Lockers

[_(OIIIIO)_Jeeper]

Steering Box Bolt

I know this subject has been covered before, but, not by me....so here we go again. :?

I am new at this so please be gentle.....

The future holds going with bigger axles on my TJ. Probably D44 up front and a D60 in rear. have been looking at Currie, but just looking.(will be going to a V8 at some point :twisted: )

Question 1: This is a Daily Driver so should l lock both FRT and RR, or just FRT, or......?

Q2: I understand what lockers do...but what is the difference in lockers?
(Air Lockers?.....)

Q3: Can lockers be unlocked for hwy use?

Q4: Would Manual hubs help in this aspect?

We'll stop there...my brain can't handle too much info at one time! :shock:

Thanks
Terry

PS-Not really into rock crawling (as of yet) mostly Mud and crawling over logs @ the hunt club

 

[_(OIIIIO)_Jeeper]

Come on Guys...I know someone out there has got a couple of cents worth to add.......

 

[jps4jeep]

I need your talents!!

On a budget, there are a lot of options. I am gonna assume that you have a D30/D35 set up, as D44 was not a option till the late 97 model year.

I would look into a D44 from a TJ or a 8.8 from a ford explorer. both pretty stout and can handle the 36" tires.

gears I would keep the gear ratio you have (obviously have to buy new ones though)

for a locker I would run a selectable locker
air-arb
cable- OX locker
electric- eaton e-locker, detriot eletrac

perhaps invest in some better axles down the road like stange or moser.

For the front, I would do one of two things.

1. source a D30 out of a 96+ xj! TJ's have low pinion D30's where Xj's have high pinion D30s, Weld up the spyder gears and add a cable axle disconnect (or manual hubs with a spool but not the best idea)

2. D4 from a FSJ, scout or 76 bronco, manual hubs a must, run a spool.

Both axles will run teh 297x u-joint which is more desirable, but the D44 allows for a larger pinion yoke, and well as a upgradeable U-joint

Now if I was working with out a budget, real easy...

Rear
Dyntrac Pro rock 60, real low gears! 40 spline competition axles, and a detriot

Front
Currie 9 inch same gear (obviously) and a detroit!

Now you can kiss those 36" tires good bye and sfely run 42"+ tires.




another option if you wanted to go absolutly insane!!

A set of rockwells with rear steer or a set of unimog portal axles, both can handle tires up to 53" michelins!

 

[JeepMonkey]

RE: Best TJ gas mileage ever!

Holy crap!!!!! I wish I had your budget jps4jeep!

 

[_(OIIIIO)_Jeeper]

Update on LJF

Holy crap!!!!! I wish I had your budget jps4jeep!

Thanks for the input jps4jeep! but unfortunately I will have a budget so running the Rockwell and 53's are out of the question!

at least now I know I can "un-lock" for the hwy.... now to decide which set-up fits my budget

hooobooy!!! :?

 

[laneiac]

A spooled D60 in the rear, and a detroited d44 in the front. But JPS4 had a very good post, especially if your on a budget.

 

[currupt4130]

be wary of a rear 44 holding 36's 44s arent the holy grail of axles that some people make them out to be. a 60 out back and a 44 up front will serve you well, a high pinion 44 up front would be a major plus as the gears are stronger. detroits front and rear or a spool out back, detroits cannot be "unlocked" but do open up for turning etc if needed. a spool just directly links your shafts. personally id go ford 9 inch out back, theyre easier to work on, more consistant, and you can find them with 33 spline axles easy enough. and if you dont want to go fullsize go get an early bronco axle set up. 44 up front with driver side drop and a 9 inch rear and theyre just about the right width. good luck

 

[TwistedCU]

If you are planning on doing lockers before you swap axles, I'd get a limited slip (Detroit Truetrac, Auburn, etc) up front and either lincoln lock or get a limited slip for the rear. You don't want to combine tires of that size on stock axles with an automatic locker. It is asking for damage.

If you're going to swap axles first, you can go any route you want.

Question 1: That's a loaded question. You will get alot of different opinions on that one. Personally, on a daily driver that sees highway I wouldn't put auto lockers on either axle. For the front I would either leave open, selectable, or go with a LS and the rear either a selectable locker (as Johnny listed), a limited slip, or lincoln job (weld the spider gears).

Question 2: There are basically five ways to lock your axles:
Limited slip: Performs similar to an open diff in most driving conditions, but if one wheel loses traction it transfers power to the other one. Ups: much better traction than an open diff, less stress on the axle, less $$$ than a locker, and more streetable. Downs: Traction is not quite the same as a locker as power is transferred instead of split.

Auto locker: Performs much like an open diff in most driving conditions, locking and unlocking as you straighten up and turn.
The ups: awesome traction offroad,
the downs: they can be noisy and can have an adverse effect on the vehicles manners - i.e: pull hard to one side when getting on it coming out of a turn, etc. and there is alot more stress on the axle - especially if running large tires on a stock one.

Selectable locker: Open differential- just like stock, until you push a button and lock the axles.
Ups - This is just about the best setup because the vehicle will handle normally, but when you need the traction - push a button on you've got it.
Downs - cost is high

Spool - permanently lockes the axle.
Ups - cheap, great traction offroad, and strengthens axle somewhat.
Downs - tires chirp around turns, tires wear a bit faster, and handling may be a bit hairy in the rain around high speed turns.

Lincoln locker - the poor man's spool- same up's and down's as a spool, but the spiders gears are welded solid instead of installing the spool. Can be done for free

Question#3: Yes with the right locker

Question #4 The driveability issues would be fixed for the front axle when in 2WD, but that's it. Driving in 4WD on the road, especially the highway, might get ugly. This is why for a DD a LS or selectable would be best up front. You could lincoln lock the front, but you'd need to change the vacuum disconnect to a manual/cable disconnect ("posi-lock") and run 3WD in snow.

 

[_(OIIIIO)_Jeeper]

RE: Jeep Bling Bling

Thanks for the input Guys. Lockers are for AFTER (DURING) the axle swap. Even though cost is higher I think a SELECTABLE LOCKER would be the way I would want to go FRT and RR.

Now just wait until the Savings grows enough to go for it!

 

[Mxpx182lit]

RE: Body lift

i highly recommend ARB's. I have them in my stock axles and havent had a problem yet, and they have loyaly got me up and out of everything my driving habits have gotten me in to.

 

[jps4jeep]

RE: Sorry to brag......

be wary of a rear 44 holding 36's 44s arent the holy grail of axles that some people make them out to be. a 60 out back and a 44 up front will serve you well, a high pinion 44 up front would be a major plus as the gears are stronger. detroits front and rear or a spool out back, detroits cannot be "unlocked" but do open up for turning etc if needed. a spool just directly links your shafts. personally id go ford 9 inch out back, theyre easier to work on, more consistant, and you can find them with 33 spline axles easy enough. and if you dont want to go fullsize go get an early bronco axle set up. 44 up front with driver side drop and a 9 inch rear and theyre just about the right width. good luck

True, no axle is 100% but a D44 will hold a lot better than a D30/35. Plus cheaper to build than a D60!

No need to cut the axles tubes down, no custom axles, cheaper lockers and gears, bla bla bla


I have another question, do you really need lockers? I was admiring the pics of you jeep in the mud, I have taken my YJ through a lot deeper mud than that, way deeper, as in mid door, I run stock axles right now and are open f&r I also run 33's, with 3.07's, and I have never really had a huge problem! everyone thinks lockers are the solution to off roading and are manditory, but I have been enjoying pushing my YJ in mud and rocks for years, and run open!

 

[Junkpile]

If it were mine, I'd just swap in a stronger rear. A trussed TJ D44 would be my first choice. It's already got the right brackets welded to it and it has plenty of strength for your application. I'd lock the new rear and keep the front unlocked for now. Just having a locker in the rear is going to make a HUGE difference......that might be enough for you right now.

Don't jump into a big expense without really needing it. Your factory front with a locked rear might serve your needs just fine. If not.....what have you lost?

 

[currupt4130]

RE: CHAMPION Winch

i agree with junk slightly, if you can come across a tj44 yea might be better to do that. the best thing to do is price out every option to its fullest, add in 100 bucks to each total, and see which is cheapest and most effective. the super 35 kit is automatically ruled out. see i wheel with a guy named chad. and chad made the mistake of getting a super 35 kit. welllll after it was all said and done he could have bought a custom HP ford 9" setup with gears, locker and 35 spline axles for a little bit less from currie, and currie is not cheap my friend

 

[jps4jeep]

Re: RE: water in auto transmission

True Dat Currupt True dat!