new axles

[ROade]

I finally got my new axles !!
Front : Dana 30 with 4.27 gears and Power Locker
Rear : Scout 2 Dana 44, set up for CJ7, 4.27 gears and Detroit Locker.
YaHooooo !!!!
Sold allmost all of my extra parts. Still some small stuff left.
Have a pair of brand new Shyjacker Hydro 8000 shocks for CJ7 rear 3-5 inch lift, with red boots and red poly bushings.All so speedo,guages,cig lighters,ashtrays and other small stuff. CHEAP !!!

 

[Junkpile]

Is the D30 from an early Scout II or a widetrack CJ?

 

[ROade]

widetrack cj7
same as the one Im taking out except for gears/locker

 

[Junkpile]

That's a fairly common swap. Are you going to run spacers on the front, or just not worry about the little bit of difference in width?

Keep that D30 you take out, Eastern Automotive in Four Oaks NC wants $500 for a complete one. The cheapest I can find them for anymore is $350 bare spindle. People used to give those things away :roll:

 

[ROade]

Spacers ?
School me !!
They are supposed to be cut/turned ,etc to be a matching set.
Yea, I'm planning to sell my 30/20 widetrack set.
Everything still works good, could use seals/bearings, and rotors.I'll prob let them go for like $300 for the set.

 

[Sully]

Sweet deal! You turning you 7 into a hardcore mud machine?

 

[Utah_jeepster]

Can you describe how you got the Scout II rear in? New spring perches?
Drive shaft change?
I have heard that dropping in the scout II front 44 is a pain since the chamber angle is diff and the steering arms are completley diffrent so I an wondering if the rear is the same P.I.T.A?

 

[Junkpile]

The WT D30 is a couple of inches shorter than the Scout II D44, so the back tires will stick out about an inch more than the fronts. You can narrow the rear axle, or run spacers on the front.

The Scout II rear just needs to have the perches moved to work in the Jeep. Same lug pattern, bigger brakes, 30 spline instead of 29, and the center section is a better casting than the AMC20.

The front is all screwed up. The Scout IIs came from the factory with 0 degrees of castor built in, except for 1980 which had 2 degrees. You lose the "return to center" after a turn, and it tends to be a little "twitchy" at speed. The arms on the knuckles are really long. In order to keep full turning ability, you need to run a Scout II pitman arm that matches the length of the arm on the knuckle.....then you run into steering linkage clearance problems. I used a set of knuckles from a D30 that I had laying around, so I could use my current pitman arm and CJ front brakes. The Scout II D44 stubs are the same as the CJ stuff, so they interchange from the knuckles out and you can still use the Scout inner and outer shafts. Making the hangers to mount up the D44 front is easy, and a couple of companies are making swap kits now. I'll probably cut and turn mine sometime in the future, but it really doesn't bother me that bad.....you get used to it :wink:

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

You could use the Rodeo rear D44, it's 58.5" wide, has disc brakes, and 4.30 ratio stock.

 

[redrooster]

Narrowing the rear to match the front will be more expensive than buying spacers for the front. Plus if you ever decide to sell swap the front then you can sell the spacers. Some guys do it the cheaper way and tun a 10" wide wheel in the front and a 8" wide in the rear. Or you can get a set off wheels for the rear that are offset to make up for the difference. I would bite the bullet and get some spacers for the reasons above an that way you don't have mismatched components.
The rear is easy to put in. Just cut off the old perches and put some new ones on. Set your pinion angle and tack weld them on. Then roll the axle back out and finish welding the perches.
Are you going spring over or under?