To swap, or not to swap.....

4.0 swap

i would go D44, lookaround for a wagoneer or something with a matching set of diffs, i got mine that way, but i got mine for free from a neighbor..... i wouldnt bother throwing money at those D35's there not wortth it...
 
Put on the 33s! Let me start by saying that a buddy of mine broke his 35 here recently by chirping secong gear with 31" tires, and I know several others who have had similar failures, but.........I ran a 35 in a 93YJ with 8" of lift and 36" swampers. I launched at 4,000rpm when I was racing on the street, and anywhere between 3k and 5k when entering the mud pit . I jumped that thing so high that one time the front axle slammed the bottom of the engine and broke both engine mounts off the frame. I drove it HARD, and broke every thing under that poor Jeep, except that crappy little 35 that everybody always picked on me about. I say put on the tires and see what happens.
 

Date all screwed up?

I agree, see how the 35 holds up. So many people are just so quick to stereotype the dana 35 and they don't even have proof to back it up or experience with one breaking. It all depends how you drive. Stick with it for now. Why go spend money on a 44 or bigger if the 35 can hold up? Just give it a try.
 
The early D35c is non c-clip so it has stronger axle shafts, it's not tapered and does not have the weak spot of later shafts.

I ran my '88 D35c hard with a 350 and 33" mud tires, never a problem. I agree that some of the D35's bad rap is unwarranted.
 

Would it be more feasable to find an old D35? I can find those a dime a dozen here. Yes, you're right on the whole money spent thing. If I could keep it without worry, then I will. I'll check out those links Bounty, thanks for giving them to me! You guys are awsome. You really are.

Another quickie... I'm installing the 3 1/2" lift, and the 1" puck. I heard from someone that I DON'T have to have a brake line extension,.... BUT, I've hear that you DO. I figure on putting them in, to me it makes sense, but what are some thoughts?
 
Transfer case skid

Get the extensions, if you can afford $90. I look at it this way: is my life worth more than $90? YES. If I were on a hill climb and got to the top not realizing that I yanked out my brake lines and had no brakes and started going down the other side... would I think that $90 was worth it? YES.

Also, on the axle thing.... stick with your 35. When it breaks, then get a new one. Don't fix what ain't broke. Use that $475 to buy a locker.

C
 
Sorry, that's what I meant by getting the older 35. I know it would be best to wait. See, that's what I thought too. I got into a "friendly discussion" with this guy about the extension. Will do.
 

Wait a minute!!!! I may be thinking wrong , but isn't the carrier on a 73 model CJ5 offset to the passengers side???? All may not be this way, but I was thinking they were, because the Dana 18 transfer case was not a through drive type. The gears were moving all the time to provide power to the rear. I may be wrong about this, but right now it seems right.

Let me know if all my Jeep info is running together.


Later,
Jackal
 
Check these out, easy way to extend your front brake lines for $8:
RE1505-4.jpg


http://www.allmyneeds.com/en-us/p_87.html

Then get the rear for $34:
RE1513-3.jpg


http://www.allmyneeds.com/en-us/p_88.html
 

i can see for a temporary financial standpoint about putting the tires on and going until it breaks... but chances are, it will break... and you'll be left out in the middle of nowhere with a broken axle, and no way home... THEN, you'll still have to spend the money to get the new axle, modify it, and install it... i'd say to get that part out of the way, you'll save yourself the anguish and time of being stranded... though, breaking parts does give you a good "bad ass" reputation out there
 
lol... true man, very true. It DOES feel good.... untill you realize you only have your front driveshaft to take you out of a trail (Right Tug? :lol: )
 

WHOA! I'm gonna e-mail them about what it actually has in it. Something that cheap as GOT to have a catch... Yeah Snitty, that's about the gist of it. It's a temp thing. I still want to swap out. With all the mod prices adding up, I actually think I might have enough for the axle anyway! Go figure.... Bounty, you're the man!

Side note... has anyone heard from USMPK9 lately?
 
Rusty's Offroad is reputable, so you shouldn't have a problem there. Let us know what you find out. It's likely 3 hard-line extensions, or drop brackets, or a combination thereof.
 

air conditioning screaming

yeah, that's what I'm thinking... I'll call 'em after work. LOL... to lengthen the post even further... What would be better? Hard line extensions or rubber?
 
jackal the rear in a 73 CJ5 was centered. They used the dana 20 in 73 which was a through drive design. I THINK they stopped using the 18 in 71. The 72-75 CJ rear is a good axle to swap into 76-81 models.
 
I'm looking at the specs on the mods I'm throwing under and looking at the formula I'm wondering if it WOULD be better to run the 32's instead. With a 3 1/2" susp. lift and a 1" puck I would get way more articulation than the 33's. But on the other hand I want the tire/lift to be proportionate.....nuts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

TerryMason
Do I need to upgrade the axle shafts in my Dana 30 (with a locker)?
Replies
2
Views
480
TerryMason
TerryMason
L
Transmission and Axle advice needed!
Replies
3
Views
5K
JPNinPA
JPNinPA
TerryMason
Shout out to the folks at Firestone Auto
Replies
2
Views
4K
JPNinPA
JPNinPA
K
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trilling Noise
Replies
9
Views
8K
superj
superj
R
4cylinder to v8 swap
Replies
0
Views
7K
rebelramalabam
R
Back
Top