Turns off whe it wants

RCJP

New member
Hi My jeep GC Laredo 1998 4.0 6L. turns off while idling and also while runnig and is hard to start.

changed the Crack Position sensor,
got new a sparck plugs and wireset, problem continues.

I had the check engine light on the code was P0351 (Ignition Coil 1 control circuit), but my jeep only has one Coil, not a multi-coil system. I reseted the codes 2 days and the CEL

checked the spark after it turns off. it looks weak the first couple of trys then looks very strong.

thank you for any help that I can get.
 

Use The Schematic Diagram as a reference. The DTC you have is not implying that you have multiple Coil on plugs but instead, it's refering to the #1 Circuit. Follow the Wiring Diagram and verify that the Circuit to the PCM and the Circuit spliced into the injectors are good.
 

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Thank you I''l check for this. hey do you have the complete manual?? if so were can i get it?.
Thnks again.
8)
 
I can give you an 800 number but it's at the office. i'm at home right now.i'll p.m. it to you tomorow.
 

Okay, for anyone who wants or needs a Chrysler Service Manual, here's the toll free number to place your order. 1-800-890-4038.
 
thanks for the number.
I checked the wirings looks ok,
whent to turn it on. it started but turned off , and it never turned on again. I drained battery from attempting to start.
more info.

my temp since i got it has always gone to 210
the colant that i put on the reserve only lasts for a week.

I tought this was normal, talked to some friends that have ZJs and there temp dosent get to 210 and the coolant doesnt run out as quickly.
 
The Coolant on the Reservoir should't run out at all unless you have a leak somewhere, internal or external.
 

I have not seen any leaks any where outside the motor so if it is inside, could this be the reason for my problem??. :???:
 
I have not seen any leaks any where outside the motor so if it is inside, could this be the reason for my problem??. :???:
Have you actually taken a good look at your radiator?

I just replaced mine because I found a crack (hairline) around the passenger side tank that only leaked while the car was being driven hard. There was evidence of dried coolant spray on the inside of the front end housing (both behind the grill and on the engine side of the tank), as well as on the walls of the engine compartment on that side. First couple times I noticed it, I couldn't figure out where it was coming from because the crack was so small and only really did anything under pressure.
 
:yeah-that::agree: . 2 test you can do without using a pressure test gauge. top off the radiator and make sure you purge the air from the cooling system. install the Radiator Cap(Make sure the cap is good) .fill the reservoir to the max level . start the engine and wait till the engine reaches it's normal operating temp. and monitor around the engine compartment for leaks. no leaks?. let the engine cool down. recheck the coolant level. this time restart the engine and monitor the coolant with the radiator cap off. if there is a head gasket leak, most of the time, the coolant will bubble out air that will be in sync with the cylinder stroke.
 

Hi

I will check for that this weekend, i going to tow it to hte shop, and ask them to check for leaks, any other electrical parts I should alo take alook at while its in the shop. (they are family so i will be able to ask for a lot of thing to get checked or even do it my self).

thank you
 
Hi to all , and thank you for the replys.
almost 3 weeks ago I whent and checked even more closley all the coneections from the injectors to the PCM, all ok and looking in the web i found a guy that had asimilar problem and what he and couple more people found was that the screw just bellow the PCM conectors cuased a Short-ciruit and what they did was change to a 1/4 screw instead of the 1/2 inch that it comes with. and after I celaned the connectors and did this it has not stalled or turned off since.
it is still hard to start but no stalling.
 
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