Wrangler front axle fluid leak

TerryMason

Administrator
Staff member
I'm getting fluid leaking out and onto my driver side knuckle. I've done some initial searching, and it looks like I need to replace the axle seal that is right next to the carrier. Does that sound right to you guys?


  1. Should I go ahead and do both seals while I'm there?
  2. Is there a preferred seal?
  3. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm working on it?
  4. My manual says pull the seals out with a pry bar, then insert the new ones with the special Chrysler tool. Is there an easy way to do this without the tool?
 

Hey Terry,

While I've never done the inner seals on a TJ or Chrysler era Jeep, I did take a quick look at the Spicer/Dana book and they appear to be similiar to the pre 86' D30/44. In which case yes, I would replace both as your going to reach through the opposite side seal to seat the other (or atleast one side anyway) and since it's like a $5 part, why not? For my AMC era Dana's, I use National Oil Seal Brand, but I sure there are "better" aftermarket parts that you'll pay more for.


Again, assuming theres has been no major engineering breakthrough in the past 30 years between the two different generations of axles, its not as straight forward as the book is telling you and no you don't really need the Chrysler tool. You will need to remove both sides of the axles from the housing and remove the carrier as well. Once these are out of the way, each seal will pry out (inward towards the center of the diff housing). They go back in similiarly, you'll start one side into it's seat with your fingers and then drive it from the opposite side with a long tool that reaches in from the outside, down the axle tube. For the ones I've done, I found a piece of 1.5 PVC pipe is the same inside dia. of the seal. I just adp'd a broom handle as the driver rod. I've read that you can also use a deep well socket and extensions too? There is a photo of me replacing one of these with the tool I made in the Tech section (Dana 30 Rebuild).


The process is not hard, but time consuming. Again, thats providing we are talking about the same things.
 
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I believe the second seal (2") is for the inner side (backside) of the rotor/hub assem.? The first one you have listed is for the axle tube and seals the oil in and other stuff out of the diff.
 
Do both sides while you''re at it. They can be done with the seal driver you can rent at the parts stores, and a 5' section of wooden dowel to drive the seal driver.
 
x2 on doing both sides. I usually just use some threaded rod and fender washers of various sizes to push out and seat the seals.

Another solution, upgrade to a D60, enough room in the diff to seat the seals with a small ball-peen hammer :crazy:
 

Another solution, upgrade to a D60, enough room in the diff to seat the seals with a small ball-peen hammer :crazy:

Let me price out the Dana60 vs the replacement seals... ;)
 
So I tried this over the weekend and ended in absolute failure. I purchased some OMIX-ADA "upgraded" axle seals, and for the life of me I couldn't drive them in. No socket would fit well into the seal, and every time I tried to drive it, the seal would go sideways. I ended up destroying two of them.

Finally, I decided to put the original seal back in - a large socket fit it nicely, and I was able to easily tap it in using a mini sledge hammer. I have a feeling that it's just the type of axle seal I was using.

I went this morning and bought two factory seals from the Jeep dealer. I'll try installing them next weekend. Hopefully things will go better.
 
Are you placing the seals in the freezer for a while before installation? A dedicated deal driver may work better as well.
 

Are you placing the seals in the freezer for a while before installation?

I haven't tried that, but it sounds like a great idea.
I'm going to try this install again in a week or so, using factory seals. I think I'll need to change my axle joints at the same time.
 
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