RE: Trouble Signing in
I have a 94 Jeep Cherokee (automatic, 4 wheel drive, inline 6). While I was driving home from about 200 miles away, my battery dummy light came on, followed by my check engine light a few minutes later. I pulled into Sears and had the battery and alternator checked – everything tested fine and by the time they pulled the Jeep out of the service bay, the battery and check engine lights were off. I resumed my trip and about 100 miles from home, both lights went on again, this time the check engine light came on first followed by the battery dummy light. The car made it home, but you could hear that it was idling at lower RPMs when I was at stop light/signs. I thought I must have a short somewhere or something drawing power from the battery. When I got home, I shut it off and planned on checking for problems before using it again. Two days later I took it around town to run some errands to see if the lights were still coming on. It did “sound†like it might be idling a bit lower, but all warning lights were off, so I drove a few miles. At my first stop, everything was fine, but when I started the car again, the check engine light came on. I drove straight home and shut the car off. I started it up again an hour later, and no lights came on, so I drove it out in the parking lot, shut it off and turned it back on again – this time the check engine light came on again. I pulled it into the garage and began diagnosing. I looked for any shoted wires in the engine compartment, but didn’t find and and checked all the fuses. I also put in a new battery (it needed one anyway). I went to start it up and nothing happened – no clicking in the starter, nothing, just dead silence. All the gauges lit up, but it didn’t try to start. I let the key in the acc. Position and used a screwdriver to bridge the starter, and the car started. I thought it might be the solenoid, so I replaced the starter, but the car still didn’t start. I checked the engine codes and came up with 35, which I believe is “cooling fan relay circuitâ€. I then went back to the website and checked to see who else may have encountered this problem in the past. Now would be a good time to mention that the heater fan does not blow unless put on high, but still doesn’t really do much even when on high. I found that jay79cj7 had this problem and diagnosed it to be a resistor group under the dash (posted sep. 23, 2003). This got me wondering if the 2 problems could somehow be related, since when I get the Jeep started by breaching the starter, it sound to idle low, like juice is being sucked off by some black hole. So, I’m at the point where I’m not sure what to do next. If it has something to do with code 35, what is my next plan of attack? I haven’t replaced any of the big fuses (the black boxes (relays?) in the engine compartment by the windshield fluid – there are about 6 of them and then 9 or so various other large fuses, between 20 and 60 – on p. 168 of the owner’s manual). I know one of the black box relays is related to the aux. cooling fan. Could this be my problem, or I am just hoping for a simple fix? I also dropped the glovebox to look at the heating fan problem, but am not positive what I’m looking for. I have a 3 or 4 pronged connector by the heating blower motor that I looked at (just like in jay79cj7 problem form Sep. 23, 2003), but it appears to be okay. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas if the 2 incident could be related, or how to fix either one/both problems, I would be most appreciative. Thank you.
I have a 94 Jeep Cherokee (automatic, 4 wheel drive, inline 6). While I was driving home from about 200 miles away, my battery dummy light came on, followed by my check engine light a few minutes later. I pulled into Sears and had the battery and alternator checked – everything tested fine and by the time they pulled the Jeep out of the service bay, the battery and check engine lights were off. I resumed my trip and about 100 miles from home, both lights went on again, this time the check engine light came on first followed by the battery dummy light. The car made it home, but you could hear that it was idling at lower RPMs when I was at stop light/signs. I thought I must have a short somewhere or something drawing power from the battery. When I got home, I shut it off and planned on checking for problems before using it again. Two days later I took it around town to run some errands to see if the lights were still coming on. It did “sound†like it might be idling a bit lower, but all warning lights were off, so I drove a few miles. At my first stop, everything was fine, but when I started the car again, the check engine light came on. I drove straight home and shut the car off. I started it up again an hour later, and no lights came on, so I drove it out in the parking lot, shut it off and turned it back on again – this time the check engine light came on again. I pulled it into the garage and began diagnosing. I looked for any shoted wires in the engine compartment, but didn’t find and and checked all the fuses. I also put in a new battery (it needed one anyway). I went to start it up and nothing happened – no clicking in the starter, nothing, just dead silence. All the gauges lit up, but it didn’t try to start. I let the key in the acc. Position and used a screwdriver to bridge the starter, and the car started. I thought it might be the solenoid, so I replaced the starter, but the car still didn’t start. I checked the engine codes and came up with 35, which I believe is “cooling fan relay circuitâ€. I then went back to the website and checked to see who else may have encountered this problem in the past. Now would be a good time to mention that the heater fan does not blow unless put on high, but still doesn’t really do much even when on high. I found that jay79cj7 had this problem and diagnosed it to be a resistor group under the dash (posted sep. 23, 2003). This got me wondering if the 2 problems could somehow be related, since when I get the Jeep started by breaching the starter, it sound to idle low, like juice is being sucked off by some black hole. So, I’m at the point where I’m not sure what to do next. If it has something to do with code 35, what is my next plan of attack? I haven’t replaced any of the big fuses (the black boxes (relays?) in the engine compartment by the windshield fluid – there are about 6 of them and then 9 or so various other large fuses, between 20 and 60 – on p. 168 of the owner’s manual). I know one of the black box relays is related to the aux. cooling fan. Could this be my problem, or I am just hoping for a simple fix? I also dropped the glovebox to look at the heating fan problem, but am not positive what I’m looking for. I have a 3 or 4 pronged connector by the heating blower motor that I looked at (just like in jay79cj7 problem form Sep. 23, 2003), but it appears to be okay. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas if the 2 incident could be related, or how to fix either one/both problems, I would be most appreciative. Thank you.
