clutch slave cylinder push-rod problem

[14erclimber]

I've nearly completed converting my 1993 Cherokee's clutch from an internal slave cylinder to external (1994+ parts), as detailed in another note. But I have one problem, which hasn't gotten me beaten, but it's sure been annoying to try to find the right part, so I'm part way through fabricating my own. Not an ideal solution, and I'd hope to get the right part soon, but hope I can limp along on this until I locate one. If you want to cut to the chase, look at the last paragraph of this note. If you want to get almost to the chase, back up one from that at look at the picture!

The part in question is the slave cylinder push rod that operates the throw-out bearing fork in the bell housing. I've converted this to use 1994 parts by replacing the bell housing and master/slave cylinders. The problem is that there seems no way to do this on a budget, which is a necessity in my case. I located the master/slave cylinders needed at a local wrecking yard, and later found that it was missing the bleeder screw, and frankly looked like it had been lying out in the rain for awhile, with dirt in the bleed screw hole. Then I found one at another yard, for a better price even, but it's missing the push-rod. The plot thickens. Here's what I've found out:

The first yard says it should be easy to get the bleeder screw at NAPA or the dealer. NAPA can't supply it, and the dealer won't sell it separately. He also won't sell me the push-rod alone, but offered my $$ back. It might be easy to fabricate a bleed screw for this one, but it's the dirty one of the two, and looks like it's been "weathered" and just looks sub-optimal somehow.

The second yard says I should use my old push-rod. Good idea, I said, but I'm doing a conversion and don't have one. He'll also give my $$ back, but won't try to chase down a push-rod for it.

The dealer says they not only can't/won't sell a bleed screw, but they also don't supply the push-rod separately. Sheeesh! :-( A local clutch specialty service outfit can't help either. I thought maybe I'd start shopping around by phone in Denver tomorrow, but then got to looking through the junk box, and found bolts the same size as the push-rod shaft, and rounded the head with a grinder, drill-press and file, followed by emory cake on the buffing wheel. Amazing what one can accomplish with minimal tools in 30 minutes when desparate! Tomorrow, I'll likely cut off the bolt, then machine (on the drill press again) a plastic cap to complete this rig. See the image at http://bluefx.com/sbs/PushRod.jpg to see what I've come up with so far. The upper right piece is what I need (borrowed from the first wrecking yard unit for the picture). The dust boot is one I found that resulted from changing the slave on an old GMC Jimmy I had years ago. The bolts are explained above. I can't see this solution as a great one, but can't find the part needed, and don't have infinite $$$$ to give the dealer for the whole new setup. ...

So I need a part, the push-rod, and the dust boot. My guess is that someone out there has replaced their slave cylinder (1994-1996?) and got one with the new slave, and has these lying around yet. I'd be happy to give what it's worth, provided you're not so proud of it as the dealer seems to be. Anyone got one of these? Any other suggestions on where to get these would also be welcome. Anyone else ever run into this kind of problem while doing this conversion?

14erclimber
aka: Steve

"All you need to invent is an imagination and a pile of junk." -Edison

 

[dingus]

To swap, or not to swap.....

i've never seen the guts of anything regarding what you're working on, but it would seem that a good machinist would be a good help. most enjoy custom making parts; i'm sure a local guy could become your best friend for like 20 bucks. have u tried any junkyards?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

There is no bleeder screw on the external slave, I think what you're looking at is the quick-connect coupling. Stick with that original slave you had that did have the pushrod, or whichever one you can get with the pushrod.

After installing you have to pump the hell out of the clutch and the air will work its way out, even more so after driving for a day or two. Keep us posted.

 

[14erclimber]

... a good machinist would be a good help... have u tried any junkyards?

Agreed, but the one I know lives about 60 miles away. I think I'll get on ok fabricating this with the grinder and drill press. Yeah, I've tried every junkyard listed, and they all seem to want to sell the master/slave setup only with the push-rod, and won't sell it separately. I've heard the suggestion to fabricate my own twice now. The mechanic that suggested this said this was a "mule part" -- doesn't have to be very bright, just needs to push and not crumple under the load, and added that it's just a silly push-rod, not part of the space shuttle. He's got a point. He said he'd done it several times and it just ain't much of a trick. So I'll try that. I'm going to be sure to polish the ends, soas not to cause undue wear, and I'll eventually chase down the right part.

There is no bleeder screw on the external slave, I think what you're looking at is the quick-connect coupling.

I've seen that stated before, so I had to try this one out. It appears to be a setscrew with a Torx T25 hole in it, and there's a tiny hole on the side of the part the screw goes into. So I filled the reservoir, and tried it, and it sure acts like a bleeder screw. A clutch specialty shop I called said that there were two types, and some do actually have this bleed setup. This guy said they throw them out, push-rod and all, when they replace the whole system with the new kit, and that I can come look through his scrap bin, so I think ultimately, this will yield one sometime in the future so I can do away with my temporary one.

After installing you have to pump the hell out of the clutch and the air will work its way out, even more so after driving for a day or two. Keep us posted.

Ya know, I wonder if Jeep had enough trouble with this that they eventually changed the part to include the bleeder. It doesn't make sense that there would be no way to do this, since it would also make building it more difficult. My part is marked 1996 by the wrecking yard where I got it, so I'll bet they changed it sometime after 1994.

I'll let you know the result when I get it the rest of the way together. Pretty cold in the garage now, since we had blizzard conditions here last night on our wind-blown hill, and things haven't warmed up yet. Thanks again ...

14erclimber

 

[14erclimber]

What do you think of this lift...?

I've got this all put back together now, with a push-rod fabricated out of a bolt. It all works great. But I still have one minor question maybe someone could help me out with, having to do with the throwout bearing. My understanding is that there should be clearance between the throwout bearing and the clutch pressure plate, so that the bearing doesn't have to spin when I'm not mashing the clutch pedal. But the spring in the slave cylinder would seem to push hard enough on the bearing fork that it would engage the bearing with the pressure plate, causing the bearing to have to spin all the time. I don't see that there's anything to hold it back from doing this. There must be something I overlooked, or worse still, something I left out. So what prevents the slave cylinder from pushing hard enough on the fork to keep the bearing from spinning all the time? The friction point on the clutch pedal is about 1.5 to 2 inches down, so it acts normal, but is that just a function of how the self-adjusting slave cylinder works?