Spidertrax Wheel Spacers

[hi_c]

Does anyone run the Spidertrax Wheel Spacers on their rig? I have TJ rims on my YJ and I love 'em. But the 5.25" backspacing is killing me. At full compression, the rear tires rub the frame! Yes, the frame! And with 5" of lift and 33x10.50s, I need to move the wheels out.

But I've heard that the wheel spacers are intended for off-road use only! My Jeep is my daily driver and I need it to work ALL the time. I can't be installing and removing spacers whenever I want to go offroad. Can anybody help me out on this? Thanks.

Corey

 

[jps4jeep]

I was reading a while back in a JP mag, and they had a list of products to make budget lifting easy, and one of the products was wheel spacers so that factory wheels could be retained for larger wheels. I wish I could remember the brand, but they were specifically designed for TJ jeeps, it is possible that the company makes them for YJ's as well. (I know that yj's and tj's all have tthen same bolt pattern and stuf, but this specifically said TJ jeeps, did not mention any other model)

 

[hi_c]

attn: Boston Jeep/Dave C

That's good... but did it say anything about "on-road/highway" use? That's the heart of my question.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I've heard they're plenty strong, as long as you stick with the 6067 aluminum (I think that was the specs). I wouldn't hesitate to use the SpyderTrax spacers onroad.

 

[hi_c]

6061 aluminum is what Spidertrax advertises. I think I can solve my issues cheaper by getting rid of my 1.25" lift shackles. Then my bumpstops would stop the tire from going into the frame. I have some 1/2" lift shackles in my garage that I made... already drilled, painted and ready to go. This would drop my lift .75" but that's hardly noticeable. Plus, I have so much lift now that I could clear 35's but with the 2.5L, I dare not go to 35x12.50. My next set will be the SS 34x10.50 LTBs.

This is what I'm going to do. If I can't stand the loss of .75" of lift, I'll get the Daystar 1" body lift. I'll still be saving $150. Thanks for the input, guys. I just hate to have a "potential" weak link in my system. Know whut I mean, Vern?

Corey

 

[redrooster]

How about getting extended bumpstops. Sure would be a lot less trouble than all that stuff you just said.
How is it that you are rubbing the frame in the rear but made no mention of it in the front? Seems to me like it would be all over the springs when you turned.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

The only way for a tire to rub the frame in the rear is for the rear axle to move side-to-side. My TSL/SX's rub the frame when wheelin, but that's because I run without a rear track bar.

I highly doubt that 1" wheel spacers will be a 'weak link' in your system, especially with only 33x10.5 tires and the 2.5L engine. Your axle housing will bend before you hurt those spacers.

 

[hi_c]

Redrooster,
I have extended bumpstops AND those 1" longer than stock replacement Daystar bumpstops. Sure I hit the springs when I turn the wheel up front, but that's not that much of an issue. Adjust the steering stops and problem solved. The front wheels tuck nicely. But due to the length of the shackles, under compression, the whole rear end moves back as well as up. So if I go to shorter shackles, the backward movement will be decreased. And Bounty is right... I run without a rear track bar as well. The thing I didn't mention is that not only is the rear tire hitting the frame (not really a huge deal) but the tire is hitting two bolts that are in my frame to hold my hitch on. I cut the bolts flush with the nut, but the tire still hits those nuts and it is cutting into my brand new BFGs.

As far as referring to the Wheel Spacers as a weak link, I just meant that it is so widely debated and understandably so. I see the WS mated to the hub and wheel and think this is a similar weakness that a 2 piece wheel has. If I can solve by dropping the jeep .75" then I'll do it. If it doesn't fix it, I'll put the shackles back on and get the Spidertrax.

Of course there's the option of new wheels with 4" or better backspacing... well, I like my dark grey TJ Grizzly rims. They look sweet with my black YJ. I don't like anything else and I got them cheap on ebay.

Corey

 

[TwistedCU]

I think I can solve my issues cheaper by getting rid of my 1.25" lift shackles. I have some 1/2" lift shackles in my garage that I made...

OR.... you could go higher by getting a set of shackles like this dude:

Don't they look purty hehehe

 

[Junkpile]

There are two kind of spacers, one has given the other a bad name. The spacers that are nothing more than a disk with some holes so they can slip over the wheel studs and then you sandwich them on with the wheel....sucks. They really only come in very small sizes like 1/4" thick, but some of the front lift block runnin retards around my parts have found the extra long wheel studs in the parts catalog and are going as thick as possible. The other type that bolt onto the wheel studs and have their own studs for the wheel to mount to are OKAY as long as they are made from a decent piece of material. Any wheel spacer, especially over an inch thick, will play hell on your wheel bearings. The wheel bearings stay in the same spot, but those big heavy rims and tires move outward.....so a greater load from the increased leverage is put on the bearings.
I know plenty of people running both styles, I've run the bolt on style on two Jeeps myself. I don't remember ever hearing any horror stories but keep an eye on the lugnuts and inspect the studs often.

 

[jps4jeep]

I think I can solve my issues cheaper by getting rid of my 1.25" lift shackles. I have some 1/2" lift shackles in my garage that I made...

OR.... you could go higher by getting a set of shackles like this dude:

Don't they look purty hehehe

Or get that size tire and you should be free from rub too!!!

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Any wheel spacer, especially over an inch thick, will play hell on your wheel bearings. The wheel bearings stay in the same spot, but those big heavy rims and tires move outward.....so a greater load from the increased leverage is put on the bearings.

Same amount of increased leverage and bearing stress as using wheels with less backspacing, both move the wheel (lever) further away from the bearing center.

 

[Junkpile]

Any wheel spacer, especially over an inch thick, will play hell on your wheel bearings. The wheel bearings stay in the same spot, but those big heavy rims and tires move outward.....so a greater load from the increased leverage is put on the bearings.

Same amount of increased leverage and bearing stress as using wheels with less backspacing, both move the wheel (lever) further away from the bearing center.

I've read that in a few places. Maybe I'm stoooopid(probable) but I don't buy it. Yes, both move the weight of the tire and wheel rim out the same distance......but one moves the mounting point of all that weight out too. Using wheels with the correct backspacing won't increase the distance between the wheel's mounting surface and bearings. Like I said, I pretty much blocked out all that school and fancy learnin stuff when they quit letting me take nap time :x ....so maybe my thinking is wrong.
I do know from experience that a big heavy set of mud tires mounted on some wide wheels mixed with a set of thick wheel spacers tends to fry bearings. With 33s you or your wheel bearings will probably never notice.

 

[Jeeplover]

Hi_C,
I've looked at the wheel spacers too. The brand you mentioned that slip over the existing studs and bolt into place and also have their own set of studs seems like it would be a strong setup. Remember the rear AMC 20 axles used the hub to "cut" splines into the shaft (or the other way around, can't remember). There is not much contact surface in these splines, thus the problem. The bolt on spacers act like regular wheel studs. As for keeping them in place once installed, what about blue loc-tite? 8)

 

[Sound_Man]

Before you drop a bunch of cash on spacers look at the price on some new rims. I run rock-crawlers (black steel) that I can bang back round if need be and they are way cheaper than a set of spacers. I think for the price of one spacer you can get 2 rims and get the tires mounted and balanced to boot!

Just my $0.02

~Curt

 

[hi_c]

Curt,
Yeah, I know the steelies are cheaper than spacers, but I like my light weight alloys and I like their look. Don't want new rims. If I do get new rims, they will be some aluminum Eagle 589 or MickeyThompson classic style rims. But that's $500 for a set of 5 all around.

corey

 

[Sound_Man]

$500 for a set of 5 rims? Aren't the spacers like $120 each? Add shipping and the price may work out to be about the same or a little less. With new rims you can get the correct backspace and be all set.

Aluminum rims don't survive here. If they did I would have kept the stock moab rims that came on my rubi on her.

Funny, I just called my Rubi a her. Now that I think of it I have not given her a name yet. :?

 

[hi_c]

Spacers are $125/pair. So $250 out the door. And I've found them with free shipping. I'm primarily a mudder (southeast). Not too many rocks to eat up the aluminums. Plus I need all the weight reduction I can get for my 2.5L.

I suppose I could solve all my problems and buy a Rubicon like you. If that Unlimited comes out in a Rubicon package... I just might have to jump on it.

Corey

 

[Sound_Man]

The Rubi didn't solve all of my problems. There were a bunch of things I had to do to her to get her prepped for the trails here and there are a bunch of problems with them. Speaking of which, I blew a u-joint on my axle last night and it took out the inner and outer shaft. poor design, 44 axle with 30 knuckles 44 inner shafts with 30 outers. Weak spot for sure.