Manual Hubs

MerkL

New member
What's the deal with manual hubs? What are the pros and cons of switching to manual hubs, and how expensive is it? Also point me in the direction of manual hub kits. Thanks.
 

RE: Hey Gang!

I see it as more personal preference. With electric or electronic versions sometimes it makes a person wonder. On the other hand - manuals you know once you turn the dial it's locked in. The only downside is that you have to get out and do it.

If I was to do it.. I would most likely go with warn. Here is a link.

http://www.drivetrain.com/warnhubsprem.htm


(edit) I have also understood that manuals sometimes leak easier too.
 
TJ rear tow hook

manual hubs are great, theyre totally servicable versus the sealed bearing units that jeep uses, you can unlock them on the road to keep wear down on transfer case and u joints which with tjs you cant do and a lot of yj owners swap to a one piece shaft so it runs the same, the parts to rebuild them can be had at any parts store for minimal cost compared to the 100+ for a new bearing unit and if your locked you can unlock one on the trail and still roll in four wheel drive and have it run like a limited slip (although you select the side) and still keep your turning radius till you get to an obstacle, w/ hub bearing units, unless you have an arb you cant do that. i like them a lot, and im going to them when i swap out axles i think they take more abuse and last longer than hub bearings
 
i didn;t see any for a YJ...this is the first time i ever had auto hubs...i'm still forming an opinion..but it is nice to not have to get out...on the other hand just the satisfaction of knowing they are locked is good to...

but how many tiems in the winter do i put it in 4wd just to get out of my driveway in the snow...takes up alot of time to get out...lock..move...get out..unlock...i think being an everyday driver i'll leave them...
 

I've thought about manual hubs and thought that maybe like a Ford Ranger pickup front end might fit?? just a theory, havent looked into it much but i just wanted to know if anybody has thought that over or has done it before. Thanks

LR
 
If your going to spend the $800+++ to buy the warn kit(which only gives you little biddy hubs like on the rangers) you should spend a couple hundred more and build a d44 w/bigger better hubs-axles-gears. Not worth the money for the warn kit and still have the d30.........
 

What's the deal with manual hubs? What are the pros and cons of switching to manual hubs, and how expensive is it?

i didn;t see any for a YJ...this is the first time i ever had auto hubs...

I've thought about manual hubs and thought that maybe like a Ford Ranger pickup front end might fit??

The problem is, the Wranglers don't have locking hubs of any kind...automatic or manual. With the YJ, they switched to a CAD(central axle disconnect) system. This eliminated the need for locking hubs so they were replaced with the unit bearings. The deal about installing hubs is that you not only get the better hub/bearing setup, but you also get rid of the weaker two piece long side inner axle shaft and go to a solid one piece. Upgrade to some heavy duty shafts and joints at the same time and the YJ D30 gets surprisingly strong.
 
RE: Just bought a 95 Cherokee Sport, what

Upgrade to some heavy duty shafts and joints at the same time and the YJ D30 gets surprisingly strong
Sorry for so many questions, but how hard is it to upgrade to a one piece shaft, and who sells them?
 
EVERYBODY DANCE NOW!!

get the seal from a newer dana 30 and a cherokee or tj long side axle, beware some cherokess had the vacuum disco too tho.

actually i take that back, search on google and find the part number for the seal, im not sure what it is exactly. its been done multiple times thoguh
 

RE: Beefer roll bar covers for 02 TJ

Junkpile said:
you also get rid of the weaker two piece long side inner axle shaft and go to a solid one piece.
Weaker? How so?

Have you seen the size of the disconnect axleshafts?
 
I'd bet money that the long one piece shaft is stronger than the shorter two piece versions and their coupling related hardware.
 
dont think so, that two piece shaft is easily as big as a 60, until it hits the diff. the coupling is pretty stout too
 

RE: XJ - Visors and Spare tire

that two piece shaft is easily as big as a 60, until it hits the diff. the coupling is pretty stout too

"until it hits the diff".....where it is the same size as the one piece? The longer shaft should absorb more load before it lets go.
 
RE: Re: RE: 4Low question...

Should, if it were not for the disconnect section of shaft being so large. I've never seen a shift collar let go, but I guess anything is possible.

I get what you're saying about absorbing more load, there should be a little more torsional give from one end to the other, but I'll stick with the poor-mans selectable locker that the disconnect gives me.
 
RE: Body mount nuts stripped out.

the only real advantage to going with manual hubs on a jeep is you can unlock at the wheel and not push the front axle and driveshaft in 2WD.. you could gain as much as 5MPG on the highway (we saw this on a 99XJ when we removed the front driveshaft, we couldn't believe it) over the always connected jeep axles. Auto hubs are weaker than the manual ones (I stripped a set on my Mazda and went to Warn manual hubs as a replacement). If everything is working OK I'd leave it alone personally.
 

RE: Body mount nuts stripped out.

There are no 'auto' hubs on '87+ Jeeps, there is simply a sealed bearing assembly (hub) that seems fairly stout to me. I can't see how a manual locking hub with it's tiny parts is going to be any stronger. I'd take the hub assembly, it's strength and simplicity, any day.
 
I say leave it alone until you break it. It's simple, it works and you already have it. I'm also of the opinion that if you are going to spend big money to upgrade then go to a 44.
 
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