Problems with my 82 CJ

[kidcj82]

Hello everybody, I just registered today to participate in this forum. Been a Jeeper since '82 and recently purchased an '86 CJ/7. This baby needs a lot of work. The problem I'm having most is I live in the jungle of NYC. Where a space to work on your project is a space in need (desperately).
Just installed the "TFI Ignition" upgrade and crossed my fingers in hope she will start up to move to the other side of the street (parking regs). She fired up! Whew, but is it suppose to start on the return position of the key? Meaning, she cranks up with gusto but starts after I release the key. It sound as if she not getting any gas. I have to add, the previous owner installed a Weber and took out most of the smog thingys. I think I'm gonna need a lot of help with this baby. Did I mention this before?. Thanks.

 

[83CJ7258greatshape]

Re: TFI ignition upgrade

<edited by TerryMason>

To kidcj82 - I would check to see if coil is getting 12 volts when ignition is in "start". This will take two people. Not sure on specifics, but generally, coil should recieve MAX VOLTAGE when ignition is is "start' as compared to when it is in "run". "Run" involves ballast resistor (or some form of ballast resistor) that extends life of coil. Reason coil receives MAX VOLTAGE in start is to give engine best possible enviroment to start.

Hope this helps

Tom

 

[TerryMason]

kidcj82 - I moved your post here (to the CJ forum). You'll probably get more help here.

For everyone else, here's the TFI upgrade that he just installed:
http://www.jeepz.com/forum/engine/16904-tfi-ignition-upgrade.html

 

[kidcj82]

Re: TFI ignition upgrade

What would cause this drop of voltage at start if it is the reason for this? Thank you.

 

[SteelHeadz]

I dont think that the smog stuff would have anything to do with your issue.On crank position, the run circuit and the Start circuit should have battery voltage. The crank circuit should go to zero as soon as you release the key to run.

 

[83CJ7258greatshape]

To kidcj82 - Question - Do you have 12 volts on the coil during start? What would cause it? Well I know the ignition switch is in the circuit. I would have to get the book and go from there.

 

[kidcj82]

Thank you for this. What I did was: I didn't wired in the line from the starter solenoid (too many noodles around here but not in my head). Now she starts up and purrs. But now the wire to the module get pretty hot. Is the TFI coil too hot for the Duraspark module? Is there some resistor I should be using or should I do the HEI mod? Thanks again.

 

[SteelHeadz]

Thank you for this. What I did was: I didn't wired in the line from the starter solenoid (too many noodles around here but not in my head). Now she starts up and purrs. But now the wire to the module get pretty hot. Is the TFI coil too hot for the Duraspark module? Is there some resistor I should be using or should I do the HEI mod? Thanks again.

You need to replace the wire that was originally hooked up on the factory coil(12 volt supply). This wire is a resistor wire and will eventually burn. follow the wire all the way to the splice close to the firewall on the driver side and cut the wire . Splice in the new wire from there and wire it up to your TFI coil. Personally, i would have gone with the HEI. I've been pretty happy with mine.

 

[kidcj82]

Yeah I agree. I might scrape up some extra moola and go with a MSD upgrade. Cracking open the Duraspark and resealing it looks like a messy job. The MRS. here (notice the upper case type) wouldn't have it. Thanks Mikey.