1410 U-joints ???

[redrooster]

I've been running the common 1310 U-joints since the day I was born into Jeeping. I would say due to finesse, I have had marginal success keeping them together. At last, all good things must come to an end.
After breaking my Atlas case (really a testament to the 1310 which didn't break), I have decided to step up the entire drivetrain to the next level. I have ordered an array of 1410 yokes and joints to convert the axles and driveshafts. Let me be the first to tell you, this is not a cheap mod. Hopefully it will pay off in the long run.
I will try to get some comparison pictures of a 1410 next to a 1310 for you photo junkies. These things are friggin huge!

 

[currupt4130]

I've never broken a 1310, dont see the need to spend the money to step up right now. When I was putting my axles together I stol the 60 and 44 1310 yokes from some friends who had scrapped them in favor of 1350's and 1410's and they asked me "Why I didnt upgrade to the bigger joints." I've never broken a driveshaft u joint to date and dont think I have the power out of the 4 banger to do it. Axles, thats a whole nother story....

 

[redrooster]

One of the reasons I am doing this is to get one common joint amongst them all. Currently on the rear, I have a 1350 at the axle and a 1310 CV at the transfer case. On the front there are 1310's at each end. I thought about going 1350 all around until a friend pointed out that the 1350 has less angularity than the 1410. The 1410 will handle 29 degrees, which is more than I need in the front. I'll have to see on the rear. It should be more than enough with the angles I'm running. If not, I'll get a shorter limit strap.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I'd rather risk breaking a 1310 that something inside a transfer case, or a pinion. The 1310 has a max operating angle of 30º, and a max constant operating angle of half that.

 

[redrooster]

Too late. I already broke the transfer case and that was with 1310's. It was the 26 spline Atlas front output. It has now been upgraded to the 32 spline. I suppose the weak link would have to be the hubs or front pinion at this point. A friend runs the same Tera Low hubs with 44 Boggers and they have lived for several years now. They seem to be pretty strong also. Still, it's hubs or pinion on the front.
The rear is a 14 bolt so I'm guessing the weak link would still be the u-joints or the drieshaft tube itself. I'll be running a Rockwell driveshaft, so it will also be stout.

 

[currupt4130]

A buddy of mines theory is this:

"Build so the weak link is your tires traction."

This means if your nose down in a hole with rocks surrounding your tire, you can still drive out cuz nothings gonna break. In reality, this is hard to accomplish. Usually something finds a way to break in a real bad spot, but it is feasible to build so your weak link is traction most of the time.

 

[redrooster]

Well, I had mine nosed up with the passenger front tire pinned under a big rock. I had a rookie passenger riding who didn't tell me it was pinned until after it broke. Oops!

I wish I had a lathe. I hate trying to tell some knuckle head how to build a stinking bomb proof driveshaft for me. They never understand. Kinda like that look you get at Autozone.