2006 Jeep Rear End Problem

jaythebaron

New member
Hi,

My brother-in-law recently bought a 2006 Wrangler X with about 50k miles on it. The other day, we were driving around and heard a clunk in the rear end. It was driving fine unless the clutch was pressed or it was put in neutral while coasting slowly. When the clutch was pressed or put in neutral, the Jeep came to a pretty quick stop. We made it back to the house and noticed that oil seemed to be leaking around the pinion seal of the rear differential. There also seems to be about 1/4" of play forwards and backwards in the rear driveshaft coming from the transfer case to the rear differential.

I've looked around online and am pretty confident that I can change out the pinion seal, but what is causing the stopping? Could there possibly be damage to the spider gears? I haven't taken off the rear differential cover yet to inspect for shards of metal etc. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Jay
 

The possible causes are numrious from what you are discribing....... When you have "play" in the drive shaft, is the pinion moving in and out? If so, you have likely burned up the pinion bearing and race. Especially if the lock nut and yoke are still tight.


While, the pinion oil seal replacement is relatively easy, it's not the cause of the problem.
 
When you pull the drive shaft off , feel for excessive play and any harsh movement in the t-case . We still don't know if the t-case has a problem that may have developed from the sloppy movement of the ring and pinion. You certainly must remove the rear inspection cover from the rear axle . I don't want to say what to expect as I don't like the sound of things now. Please post your findings , pics and lets hope for the best but for now , gather prices for replacement parts to be prepared . Best of luck . Greg
 

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Brother in law here. Thanks for your replies. I drove 2 miles one way with no previous oil leak or noise. I almost didn't make it the 2 miles back home. Every time I would stop I would hear a loud knocking noise and the Jeep would stop and sometimes kick back in reverse a hair. Only a couple of drops of oil since I got back Mon. This looks like way more than the "play" I have seen in youtube videos.
 
So in the photo you posted, did you remove the locknut/retainer from the yoke and pull the yoke off a bit to take the photo or is that how much play you had by just moving the driveshaft out of the way? Regardless, your going to need to remove the diff cover and take a look inside. If my orginial suspisions are correct and you damaged one (likely both) pinion bearings, it's not a easy fix. Not sure of your ablities (nor doubting them), but you're going to need some specialty tools and a fair amount of labor to replace the bearings and anything else that was damaged or will become damaged during the rebuild process. If this is something you're not geared up for or have the mechinical bearings (yes those are puns!!!), you may want to have a shop do the work.
 
No ability here at all. I removed nothing. That's all the play that was there. The guy I bought it from said he has a Jeep that was in a fire but the tires are still in good shape and he could get the axle for me. He is a small used car dealer. I just hate to replace the axle and have it happen again. What makes a front bearing fail? I am not a mud guy and the Jeep is used to run around town in. It does have a 4 inch lift and 35's on it. No warning at all. I have only owned it for a month. Is this a $500 fix? $1000? $2000? Thanks again for your reply!
 

Bearing failure in a differential can occur for as many reason as the day is long. Mositure, debris (both from water crossings), lack of gear oil (leak), extreme heat or cold (not likely), defect in material, slight misalignment during build up and list goes on.


If you can find a desent used axle, that is probably the most cost effiective opition. But again you'd going on what someone else is telling you. I would at least inspect it by opening the cover and having a look. The carrier and ring, the pinion and thier related bearings will have no play that you can detect by hand (they have preloads and endplay but you should not see any play by hand other than rotational). The oil inside can be in any conidition without the presumpion of being bad, you just don't want a milky mix, particules of metal or foam in the gear oil.


Having a competant shop do the work will be costly (sometimes finding a shop that will do it is tough). The cost could be anywhere from $500 on up depending on what all is needed. Just keep in mind that at some point it can replace the axle with an aftermarket upgrade when the repair cost start to get pricey.
 
I am in complete agreeance with policemonkey161's post . I just could not believe the way the front bearing failed to this magnitude ! It took the rear bearing with it and Lord only knows what misalignment of the pinion to ring caused in the way of damage ! Well , we're looking at a disassembly for sure to find out what got trashed besides the two bearings. Quite honestly . I have never seen a failure to this degree . This may be common in extreme off-road and seen occasionally , but I have not been around jeeps or trucks that goes EXTREME off-road for sometime and have never seen this kind of failure in a auto or light truck either. Have heard the noise or felt the binding or clunking of a bad rear or results of failure , but I believe that someone had recently changed an oil seal on this rear axle and went overboard on the torque with a HEAVY setting on the impact used to install the pinion nut and did NOT preload the nut AFTER initial torque is applied and reached upon reinstalling companion flange , washer and pinion nut .
To sum it up , someone done messed up royally ! From the picture , even with all that oil and dirt , you can see that the seal is fairly new as the seal surface is even all around and has pretty much all its original integrity on the sealing surface. Shame , its got to come out with all the othe parts and a new one tapped in. No matter how good it looks , I wouldn't try to keep costs down if a rebuild will be performed. That seal is the cheapest part of that rebuild. But I got to agree with policemonkey161 again , if you can get that rear from the salvage jeep you mentioned , and its good ( you really should inspect it too ! ) , I'd say go for it . Double check all items for reinstalation like brake lines for example . Shame another jeep caught fire , hate to see jeeps die, but your jeep will live on through donated parts . Even jeeps can be a donor , look at that !
 

I'd suggest looking around (on craigslist) for a complete rear end with the same gears you have currently.

The Dana 35 rear axle in your Jeep (assuming you don't have a rubicon) isn't considered that strong, and people upgrade them all the time (I've got one in my back yard). I don't know where you are, but I'd guess $250 for a ready to drop in axle would be about right.

Much easier to just replace the whole axle, versus changing out the pinion, gears, etc.

For example:
97 Wrangler Dana 35

Or, you could use this as an opportunity to upgrade to a Dana 44 or Ford 8.8
 
I'd suggest looking around (on craigslist) for a complete rear end with the same gears you have currently.

The Dana 35 rear axle in your Jeep (assuming you don't have a rubicon) isn't considered that strong, and people upgrade them all the time (I've got one in my back yard). I don't know where you are, but I'd guess $250 for a ready to drop in axle would be about right.

Much easier to just replace the whole axle, versus changing out the pinion, gears, etc.

For example:
97 Wrangler Dana 35

Or, you could use this as an opportunity to upgrade to a Dana 44 or Ford 8.8

well,it seems things happen for a reason . Out with the old , in with the new. Instead of swapping in a potentially problematic axle of the same build , it would be worth the cutting and welding to do it once , do it right. Those ARE both known strong axles . Don't hear of them breaking too often except in engine and trans upgrade to significant higher HP & TQ.
 
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Opened her up and his is what I found... Dana 35 gear ratio is 3.07 tires are actually LT285/70R17 121/1180 so I think they are 32's? 33's? The lift seems to be 4 inches unsure how to confirm. I just want to keep this from happening in the future. Thoughts? The seal on the diff cover seemed freshly sealed. Keep in mind I don't know what I am talking about. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 

This is classic , someone either did not know or did not care what they were doing. Regardless , the easiest fix is a rear end swap . Hoping the next axle will work out better . And you'll get to bleed out the rear brakes in the process . That's a good thing . Best of luck , Greg
 
Dear Jeep brother from another mother,

I live Mississippi zip 39567. What do thou want for the Dana 35 you have in your back yard? My ration is 3.07. This is Jeep 5 in 20 years. I have a Smitty built XRC winch on the Jeep that I have no use for if you are game for a trade. It came with the jeep and I use this car as family car #2 street driving on the beach pavement only. Not a mudder or hunter.

Thanks, Will
 
Well , there's discussion of the Dana 35 and its worthiness on a couple of threads and I've heard that any time in the past that a grand cherokee rear ( Dana 35 ) is in need of replacement , the rebuild is too expensive in a shop to justify the worth . If it is decided that your rear is not going to be rebuilt in your driveway , as it is dedicated work requiring proper gauges to measure run out , clearance , gear pitch and such , then the best choice is to replace with a Dana 44 . For a cj5 , they were found in the dj5 U.S. mail jeeps and that is a direct replacement as it will bolt in without modification which is the best choice to get your TJ up and running soonest at the least expense. Up here locally , there are not many , if any d44's for fit to a CJ chassis and that rear would go at least $300 and up depending on mileage as they are favored for replacement and locally here there just is not the big market for the CJ since the trend is newer jeeps .
its shameful that even the YJ is not abundant in local auto salvage and any yards even close that may have them know that these parts net high profit and are immediately sold to whom ever is seeking parts for jeep clubs and dealers of used jeeps for repair and sales. That makes it difficult to obtain one for replacement for just one jeep and of course means it drives up the cost.
Its not impossible to find a d44 up here , just not common anymore as they are in regions where older model jeeps ( CJ & YJ , for example) , since the trend is new models and leasing is popular.
For us old jeep owners , we are constantly faced with buying on eBay or Craigslist and having to work out price and shipping on heavy items such as engines , trans, t-cases and axles.
A Dana 35 will go for less if found , but the shipping will just kill the purchase and in the end , less desirable . Unfortunately , my only way to upgrade too would have to be finding a d44 from any jeep , such as an older cherokee 1983 and older and cutting down the axle tubes and re-perch for proper leaf or coil spring mount as applicable. In the 10308 zip , you would have to call or go online to recyclers for inventory as anywhere close just dosen't have or keep these parts or even get them as the jeeps just aren't available. The only jeeps that are ever junked are xj's as I haven't seen many YJ's locally on the street or junk yards in at least 5-10 years . We just don't see them anymore here. I have seen 2 or 3 CJ jeeps in the last ten years and only one was resorted. The other cj(s) I have ever seen had neede restoration or repair VERY DESPERATELY.
Not long ago , I was on the kick of trying to locate old salvage dj5 jeeps to convert to a CJ , I guess some one who owns a salvage yard that buy them for project build are driving up the cost .
NYC has strict laws for auto recyclers that a vehicle cannot sit in its yard more than six months before it is to be crushed and recycled. That means they disappear if even found by sales to other yards or just crushed for $$$ in iron. It's disheartening. If my Chrysler 8.25 broke , I would have no choice but to pressure wash the carrier and tubes after disassembly and start from the case with a ring and pinion , new bearings and shims , cluster gears and shims. Just all new from right to left and all in between. But I consider the 8.25 a good candidate for rebuild or swap in our case . Trouble is for your TJ , it would be better to get a YJ rear for easier install but most YJ axles were d35. Rare anyone got a d44 in a heavy tow package. If you did decide to get a 8.25 rear if Cherokees are plentiful in salvage for you , you would have to re-perch it to fit your leafs and the companion flange may be different so the u-joint may have to be upgraded and drive shaft refitted. Of course rear brakes are to be dealt with as well . Sorry our availability and prices are not helpful to you , but I'm hoping for you that locally they will treat you better as in your area , jeeps are very common as you well know and parts , I hope , are more plentiful.
I have been told more than once that if I am to buy a CJ 5 , I should look down south . Been told various places such as Alabama , Tennessee , and just a lot of southern states as they are still very popular. Hoping this helps and I really believe that if possible , an upgrade would be better.
i will respect if you decide to find another d35 since they probably are more available and cheaper . Less trouble to install as that's what you got now. Just hope it's in good shape , wouldn't want you to end up doing it all over again. Really , best of luck and always looking when I can for such parts for that hot ticket upgrade or replacement too . Greg
 
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Ok time for my two cents... First off, if you have the gauge and base, rebuilding a differential IS NOT as hard as people are trying to make it out to be. It IS easier off the jeep, and it IS time consuming, but it is NOT all that difficult. If you can rebuild an engine you can do a differential. You just need to take your time, and be precise. It is literally that simple. Now with that said, if you don't already have them, if you DO replace the rear axel, replace the rear brakes with disk brakes, you are going to have it all apart, so you will save a lot of time. and while you are at it, look for an expensive (14 bucks average for two) pair of bleeder nuts. Called Power Bleeders, they are simply a bleeder with a one way valve built in. Supposedly to make one man bleeding easy in reality you can bleed both sides in under ten minutes with two people, one to pump the breaks one to watch a clear tube going into a catch bottle, and to refill the master cylinder as needed. Because of the valve in the bleeder you just open it a quarter to a half turn and pump the brakes. using clear tubing you literally see the air leaving the cylinder and can close the bleeder when the tube has pure brake fluid in it. My Kid's 95 Taurus had the front passenger side brake line rot out. I replaced both front lines to the master cylinder (replaced the rear lines last year) and literally bled the lines with new brake lines in less than ten minutes. I was going to replace the bleeders due to the age, figuring they would be damaged opening them, and found these gems at the local discount parts store.
 
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