Axle Flip Lift?

CJatGuy

New member
A friend of mine just got a 88 YJ Seirra, and he wants it purely as a toy, but he needs to be able to have it roadworthy as well as good offroad. He wants to save some money by flipping the axle underneath the leaf springs. Will this work? I told him he still wont have the flex of new shackles and bushings, but i think he just wants lift, not really flex.

Any ideas?
 

this is also called a spring over axle conversion, it nets about 5-6 inches of lift with stock springs and will increase flex ten fold. theres a lot more to it than just putting the springs on top of the axles though. an SYE and CV shaft are going to be needed after the conversion as well as longer brake lines all around and a few other minor things.
 
Forgive me if I make the wrong assumption here, but I've heard the term "axle flip" many times. This term is somewhat misleading, and the proper way to describe it is as a Spring Over Axle conversion, or SOA. I had a guy actually explain the process of flipping the axles over.....of course this is far from what happens. The axles atay in the same relationship to the Jeep. You will be removing the springs from their original perches which are under the axle, and placing them on top of the axles by welding new spring perches up there. This gives you a lift equivalent to the diameter of the axle, the height of the perch and the thickness of the spring pack. Like currupt said, about 5-6". If you already knew that I'm sorry, I just didn't want you planning on an impossibility.

A SOA is often difficult to correctly set up. It's important that you said he wasn't really interested in max flex.....because that is the point of most SOA setups, and you may actually wind up spending more time and money than you would just buying a spring lift and staying SUA unless you can fabricate everything yourself.
 

RE: Kazza Lite a pay site???

i agree with Junk, if hes not intersted in flex then go SUA and a little bit of body lift, a little bit constitutes an inch, not two 3 inch blocks stacked, a good 4inch lift and a little body will easily clear 35s and with some fender trimming ive seen 38s on an sua. Rubicon Express's 4.5 extreme duty is a great lift for the price
 
RE: front locker installed

Get a good complete 4" spring under lift, it'll be easier to install and cheaper to do right. Save the SOA type lift for those with the mechanical resources, money, and need.

Don't go higher than necessary if it's an inexperienced jeeper, best to let the height of the jeep grow with the driver's experience.
 
RE: Quick question about TJ Tire size vs. Gear Ratio.

i have done two SOA's, and helped a bunch with others... it is NOT an easy lift if you have not done it before... i actually had the idea long before i knew it was a commonly performed operation... at first i thought "that seems easy enough, a bunch of lift for free, all benefit"... there's a LOT involved...

though i will say i HAVE done one for UNDER 150 bucks... and it is still performing wonderfully... but we had all of the resources.. all of the materials.. a few great brains.. and it was decided that this machine was for OFF ROAD ONLY...

as for mine... didn't cost me a lot for the SOA... about 700 bucks including tires... but i still have a few things i need to take care of... i'm not one to brag, but i have quite a clever mind and i'm not afraid to take on many things myself... so i did make a lot of the parts that most people would have to buy... so that is why i got out of it so cheap...

if you have any questions... let us know... you're asking at the right place
 

Sorry for my ignorance, but was is a SYE? Slip Yoke Extension? I know about brake line extension ect.

This Jeep is in a garage right now and might actually stay there for a few months, so he would have plenty of time to do things slowly.

What kind of welding could possibly be involved?

Chad isnt totally mechanically inept...he's a Mechanical Engineer, but this will be his first full out off road "toy".

BUt at 5-6 inches of lift...that might be more tire then wants to have to buy...
 
Re: Question for those with hardtops...

As you go higher w/ your drive line (suspension) you'll need a longer shaft AND to deal with a large angle between your t-box and diff. After about a 3-1/2" lift, it's difficult to solve with shimming (wedges) your rear axle. So, it's dealt with a double cardan joint at the t-box. The kit will run about $450.00, plus spring plates, plus longer shocks...........not cheap. ALSO, you may need to address your front end steering.

Welding? spring purches for one (or four).

http://www.4xshaft.com/

http://www.mountainoffroad.com/
 
SYE - slip yoke eliminator.... it makes your slip yoke into a fixed yoke.

More welding is needed for new shock brackets x4... oh and speaking of which, you need longer shocks.
Sounds like you guys should stick with the SUA lift and put a tcase drop on it. 33s look nice under a 4" lift.
 

RE: mo pics

im with joopin as far as lift goes, it sounds like youre looking for a cheap solution and havent researched it well. no offense. a good sua lift is more cost effective and will do what you need it to do
 
haha im not looking for the lift, my buddie was looking to do it cheaply, but i think he will be informed otherwise....it also depends...i dont know how much he wants to spend.
 
you can get a SYE on ebay, new for under 250.. thats what i did...

welding will be for spring perches which can be purchased or made, i decided to make mine.. and shock mounts can go either way as well
 

RE: EVERYONE READ!! IMPORTANT!!

Under $250 sure, but don't forget the $$$ for a rear CV driveshaft.
 
oh yeah... if you want a CV driveshaft for under a million dollars... there's another place you're gonna need a welder
 
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