question about moving my mirrors

[pizaba]

so,

i bought a pair of mirror relocators. they change the loc of the mirrors from the door to the side of the plates of the wind shield henges.

so here i am thinking this shouldn't be too complicated. i work at a tool repair shop, i have access to pretty much any tool, and if it isn't in the shop, i tell the owner and we have it next day. as soon as i start this little project, i see that the pair of mirror mounts don't come with bolts. ok no problem, i'll just use the original bolts. WRONG. i can't the *******s off. i've only tried on one bolt though. i stopped because i managed to strip the star out.

so, no problem, i'm down with buying new bolts if need be. its cool right?

thats where i am stuck at. i don't know what size/thread pitch these bolts are, mainly because i can't get them out. so my question is

a) what are the bolts i need to get to replace the original bolts on the wind shield hinge mounts?

b) how would one recommend getting the originals out? at first i used the correct fit of a star manually. stripped. attached said star to impact wrench. more stripped. said f u to star. went to easy-out set. stripped. am now considering using a radiac to cut flats into the bolts and win. but i don't really wanna slice into the hinges too much.

 

[tazsean]

I got mine out with ALOT of WD-40

 

[Saddle Tramp]

You have to figure that the OEM bolts were supplied by the lowest bidder and are pot metal grade. If you don’t hit them with some kind of rust breaker first you will only have troubles.

 

[SteelHeadz]

Been there done that. I ended up taking off what torx bolts came off and took the whole windshield assembly off and set it on a workbench to do surgery on the ones that was broken off. I ended up cutting a section off the hinge area and replaced the plate with the threaded holes then welded the frame back together. BTW, i also tried the easy out extractor after drilling thru the broken bolt only to find that the extractor broke inside . Insult to injury. It's a conspiracy i say, ARGGGG!!

 

[bobcat481]

Penetrating oil and a heat gun? Apply the heat around the bolt, not on it. May be enough to expand the body/hinge steel enough to let the penetrating oil get in. Never tried it, but maybe worth a shot before scheduleing (sp) a surgery date. Also an impact screw-driver to jolt it. Just thoughts...LAter

 

[goldtj]

i had a similar problem while installing my windshield hinge light mount brackets.i made the mistake of trying to use a cheap Torx t-40 from autozone.bad idea-cheap tool twisted and deformed the hole.i was able to buy a QUALITY Torx t-40 from snap-on,and carefully beat it in with a hammer and bail myself out!lesson learned!make sure you use a good quality tool!

 

[Operation 4x4]

I got mine out with ALOT of WD-40

WD40 or some awesome penetrating oil. Let it sit for a while and apply ALOT. Don't try this with the same bolt though; since you stripped it already it might be harder to take it out.

All the best,
Chris

 

[pizaba]

i will definitely soak the front end in wd-40/pen oil. i think i'm screwed on that bolt i tried and stripped, 99% sure i'm gonna have to cut it. i hate "simple" upgrades. at least with a hard upgrade you know you're in for some labor hours.

 

[Team Twisted Off Road]

#1---I use PB BLAST.

PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst eliminates fighting with rusted and frozen fasteners and parts, and works where other purported penetrating lubricants fail. Simply saturate the troubled area before working and PB Blaster's unique capillary action allows PB to wick itself into the tightest cavities to break loose the surface tension of frozen and corroded fasteners and parts. PB Blaster does not evaporate and remains on the surface to lubricate and protect against further corrosion. PB Blaster is also an excellent cleaner for corroded fasteners, as it penetrates through and loosens the surface rust on fasteners. PB Blaster is propelled by by carbon dioxide and contains no ozone-depleting propellants


#2---Or KROIL
Loosens Frozen Metal Parts!
An industry proven penetrating oil that has no equal. Quickly loosens
rusted nuts and bolts - frees frozen shafts, pulleys, etc. Penetrates to 1
millionth inch spaces, dissolves rust, lubricates, cleans and prevents rust.
Displaces moisture. The oil that creeps


Im sorry but WD-40 suck...

 

[bobcat481]

KROIL is good stuff.

 

[mikep]

Glad I saw this because I was just going to go out there and use a cheap torx to take them off. I would have been the guy writing to ask for help. Still would like to know what bolts and size used to replace the facrory one?

 

[black87yj]

just drill the centers out of all of them,bur off the heads and pull off the hindge and use plenty of pb or kroil then the easy out. once the hole is drilled just shy of the threads vice grip the sucker or easy out em. did the last two this way.

 

[Weylyn]

Grinder and a drill, my best friends

 

[jfrabat]

BTW, i also tried the easy out extractor after drilling thru the broken bolt only to find that the extractor broke inside . Insult to injury. It's a conspiracy i say, ARGGGG!!

I still got an extractor sticking out of one of my windshield bolts as well... Never bothered to actually take it out after that, so it's still in there.

 

[DREDnot]

If I remember correctly, those bolts are held in with locktite and rust.
First time I tried to remove one, I snapped a SNAP-ON torx off flush in the star.

After I managed to get one out and saw the locktite, I used a torch on all the rest to weaken the goop and after they were cool, left them sit overnite soaking in PB blaster.

They came out with some swearing but no more carnage.

Lord help you if you bust off one of those threaded plates up in the bulkhead tower

 

[Crazy4diesels]

When my TJ was still fairly new I removed most of these bolts, greased them with marine grade grease, and reinstalled them. Even back then a couple of them had a little rust in the threads. They were all very hard to get out - each one broke loose with a bone jarring SNAP!! A couple of them would not budge, though. Even being careful I can see that the star in the bolts has smooshed a little (literally twisted slightly but kept its star shape) . These bolts seem to be pretty soft. I think I have two that I could not get out - I might try a brand new torx bit, we'll see... The marine grease is great - it stays in the threads forever. I removed every fastener under the Jeep when it was brand new and greased them all so that later I would not be fighting the rust. Best of luck - John

 

[abe]

i tried all of the oils and penetrate's nothing worked... so i just cut them off and drilled and tapped them. it was easier