Question for Snitty and others w/ SOA

[guysmiley]

Finally have time to install my SOA kit. My question is, who purchased the bolt on kit as to the weld in kit. I purchased the weld in kit from RE, and before I tackle it, did anybody run into any issues with steering binding against any components. I'm keeping the 3.5" lift above the axles, as I know some install the kit with stock springs. Just want to make sure I'm not running back to the local 4WD shop with minor needs. Also, is anybody using the centerforce2 clutch kit with the weights, any effect on shifting. Its time I take care of the rear main seal leak, so i'm installing the new clutch kit along with tubular transfer case support/skidplate from Quadratec. Thanks for any/all input
Guysmiley

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Good luck getting the stock steering to bolt up, seems 3.5" springs +SOA would be too much angle for the TRE's to take. Most jeeps that high require a high-steer setup.

Why the need for 9" or so of lift?

 

[currupt4130]

With 2" springs my steering hit the springs when turned to the right. You don't need that much lift. Whatever size tire you could fit with 9 inches of lift is gonna be way too much for your stock axles. Find some stock springs, you won't look so ridiculous, I swear. I know you want as much bang for your buck as possible but take it from someone whos seen a couple of SOA's with 4" springs, it's way too tall and your Jeep is way too narrow for that to be safe.

 

[guysmiley]

Thanks for the info. I kept all the original equip. From what I'm understanding, with the stock springs, I should (I'm using the word should lightly) have no problems with steering angles. I already have a few people in mind willing to take the rancho suspension off my hands. Price is no option, just want to be proper. My 35's are about gone, and am upgrading to a 37 tire wheel package. At the same time I will be doing front and rear diff work (axles, gearing, lockers). Should there be any issues with 37's with SOA, stock springs, and 1" shackle lift? Thanks again for the input. This vehicle is still roadworthy, but I'm looking for something alittle more civilized, and this will just be an offroad vehicle. Again, I'm looking to make it as reliable as possible.
Guysmiley

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Consider at least adding a long add-a-leaf to each stock spring pack. Ideally you should pick up a set of RE 1.5" SOA springs, they'll last and perform the best. Several friends of mine have the RE SOA 1.5" springs and the stock steering barely clears the PS spring at full-lock.

Consider a set of TJ flares, should clear 37" nicely without raising the center of gravity unnecessarily.

What axles and gear ratio you planning on using?

 

[currupt4130]

With 37's my advice will follow bounty's. The RE 1.5 SOA springs are great springs. But you can aslo put on a one inch BL and run stock springs. Either way you should put on the TJ flares if you plan on maximizing the range of flex offered by an SOA. You might think about dropping the shackle lift too, but thats only a suggestion from me, just a personal bias I guess.

 

[Snitty]

I build all my parts from hardware store odds and ends. My springs are tired. The rears are pretty much flat, and the front have a stock curve to them. I used a ZJ pitman arm (3" drop, 2" lower than stock YJ) and my draglink hits the spring on a full right turn.

I agree with the others. I think that a 2" lift with SOA is pretty much maxing out what you'll want to use. If you went with full size axles, and moved the rear axle back for driveline issues... along with a high-steer setup for the front, it may be practical to go higher, otherwise it is too much stress in critical areas. If you think the 37s don't fit right, you can then go body lift. I would first suggest Bounty's idea of modifying the flares though. My flares are cut at the factory trim line and it gave them a good appearance.

 

[guysmiley]

Thanks for all the information. This is exactly what I needed before I tie up the vehicle on a lift. So I'll go ahead and order the proper springs, shackles, etc.. Tires, gearing, axles, lockers, alignment will be taken care of by my local 4wd shop, immediatly after the suspension setup. I don't care for setting up gears. I've done it in my muscle cars in the past. I'll let pro's handle that end. I'll post again when I have everything proper needed and continue with the install. This way I could still drive and not tie anything up. Again, thanks for all the input. Forums are a great thing. I belong to a few, and can't stress enough how much information can be passed along.
Guysmiley

 

[Snitty]

Glad to help... I've pretty much run into all of the potential issues with the SOA and there's not a question that can't be answered on this forum

 

[Joopin]

My advice, don't get an AAL. I put a full leaf Rancho kit when I did mine and it just made the ride all stiff and ended up sagging in a couple years. Bite the bullet and get the RE SOA springs, I have been riding on mine for a couple months now and the difference is like night and day. Plus you have no need for a traction bar since the SOA reverse eye springs keep any spring wrap from happening. This past weekend I was playing on some sand hills and didn't break any U-joints like I would have with the stock AAL springs. You will have to put a t-case drop on though, my CV shaft was maxed out with the SOA and the 1.5" on top of it.

 

[currupt4130]

You will have to put a t-case drop on though, my CV shaft was maxed out with the SOA and the 1.5" on top of it.

Really? I ran 2" lift leaves (now they're more like -1") and rasied my drivetrain an inch. Never had a problem with any binding in my CV shaft

 

[Joopin]

Really? I ran 2" lift leaves (now they're more like -1") and rasied my drivetrain an inch. Never had a problem with any binding in my CV shaft

Yeah I dunno but when I drove it you could hear the collars on the CV joint hitting each other... like a clicking sound. I put the tcase drop on and everything is back to smooth. I really didn't want to do it but I had no choice!

 

[Snitty]

The difference is in the 4.0 and 2.5 drivetrain. The 2.5 drivetrain is shorter, allowing better angles

 

[Joopin]

The difference is in the 4.0 and 2.5 drivetrain. The 2.5 drivetrain is shorter, allowing better angles

Ah, now it all makes sense. Good call Snitty.

 

[currupt4130]

Hadn't even thought of that. Joopin, you ought to be able to grind the ears on the CV joint a little bit to gain a few degrees of droop. Tom Woods offers this service if you don't want to do it yourself. You can always call him and get info on where to grind.