3/4 ton axles in a yj

registration45

New member
Hey im wanting to put 3/4 ton chevy axles in my yj. im looking for any advise or pictures of it already done. maybe someone here has done it already.
 

Have you done a t-case swap because Chevy axles are passenger side drop and your YJ is driver side.
 

registration45 said:
Hey im wanting to put 3/4 ton chevy axles in my yj. im looking for any advise or pictures of it already done. maybe someone here has done it already.

You could swap in a Dana 300
 
Wheelbase stretch would be one, otherwise your rear drive shaft would be way to short and couldn't handle any angle you would have from a lift. Tons of people have done it, got a buddy with a 454, th400 and 205 in a 88 model but it has a 115" wheel base verses your 94".
 

ok the transfer case i have is a 208 i would rather have the 205 obviously. but work with what'cha got right.... i need to get an auto trans and i want the th400 or 350(nv4500 would be great!). im not opposed to stretching the drive shaft, and wheel base. im mostly wondering if anyone has put the 3/4 ton axles in the yj? and how stupid wide it is? also what other kind of crazy stupid mods they did to make it all function properly?
 
Th 400 has a wider pan than a TH350 so you may need a 2 pc front shaft. Your engine is offset to the right further complicating right side front shaft room. So you may need to move the engine to the left a little.
 
The rear should be a 14 bolt and they are excellent but the front will either be a 44 or 10 bolt and depending on what tires you plan on running you may want to find a front 60. They will be roughly 67" wide verses 60.5 stock. When I went full width the difference wasn't that noticeable but I ran a 10" rim with 3" of back spacing before and went to 8" with 4".
 

i like the extra width of fullsize gear. its more stable and it looks better too.
 
I have to agree with that. Only time I don't like it is on tight trails because my full widths don't turn as sharp and I tend to hit trees that stock width jeeps don't.
 
I used 78 f250 axles on mine, it had drivers side drop and streched it 6 inches,
if you want pics be glad to send them to you, the sight wont let me post my email I dont have enough posts yet. Also did a spring over lift and a slip yolk eliminator, running 37 inch military tires but I had to cut the body, and put 5.13 gears in the rearends with a spool in the front and detroit auto locker in the rear
 

I wouldn't bother with those axles, based on the limited info you posted, they are most likely a 10 front and a SF 9.5" 14 bolt rear, niether axle has a huge amount of aftermarket support and the front is prone to exploding with any tire over 35" and a locker. If I were you, I would move on to a different vehicle. if the rear is actually a FF 10.5" 14 bolt, then I would keep that and start looking for a D60 front. as for the motor trans and t-case, assembled, it should be slightly shorter water pump to tail shaft than a 4.0, aw4, NP231. so your driveline length is not an issue... but the motor is, any 350 from 73-87 (which I am assuming your truck is) is kind of a dog of a motor, reliable, but way under powered. For less money invested, you can get into a Vortec 5.7 or a 5.3 with EFI and have more power.

For a trail rig, I would keep the trans, for a daily driver I would look for a 87+ 700r4 for the OD.

The 208 is a horrible case period.

This is my opinion, feel free to disagree.
 
Like he said find some tons. Wish I had. I've got a ton of cash in my front 44 and you know what they say about polishing a turd. It was OK with my 35s but I'm wondering how many sets of chromos I'm going to snap with my 38s.
IIRC the TBI 350 that came in trucks only had around 190 hp stock and put some miles on it and it isn't any better than a L6 that came in YJs. If you can find a Vortec engine you get a few more ponies.
 
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