Carb?

[JTR0569]

I am tired of chasing vacum leaks and no longer want all the pulse air crap on my 89' 4.2L. Anyone have any suggestions for someone on a tight budget. Is there just a plain-ole 2bbl that I can bolt on?

 

[HIX]

i had the same trouble with my 88 yj. first i put a clifford intake that holds a 4bbl holly 390 cfm. the reason i put the clifford on it because i could put my heater hoses on it unlike the offenhauser. please dont laugh at the spelling. go to 6=8 or clifford.com they also have a sweet rebuid kit to. also you can put a weber on a stock intake with an adapter. its probubly your best budget option. let me kno if you have any more ?

 

[bernie]

I got to be honest. The best modification I did to my 87 was a 4.0 swap, now the thing will run up side down (not always a good thing) you probably did not want to hear that but it’s true.
I tried for a year or so with the 390, it ran great around town, but off road I would have to say only fair. Never tried the Weber but think now if I had to do it over again with a carb it’s probably better suited.
But if you want trouble free, never look at it again, server angle running, save the extra and do a 4.0 swap.
Bernie

 

[jackrgdy]

ya gotta love it, you start by saying budget, cause i'm slap-ass broke sounds bad, and you don't get a fix that costs less than a grand. i too need the same info, WHAT GOOD JUNK YARD RE-BUILDABLE 2-BBL AM I LOOKING FOR? MOTORCRAFT OR HOLLEY IS FINE WITH ME, WHAT CASTING # (350 cfm or abouts) don't worry guy's, when JTR and i get the money, a 360 AMC will take care of everything , but right now a carb with no wires will do.

 

[HiHood]

WK550-34 Weber carb kit about 300 bucks.

 

[Postofficemike]

Totally go with the Weber carb. I got rid of the spaghetti looking mess of vacuum lines and my 89 starts like its a new car! Cost about $300 but worth that in less frustration and knowing it will start every time. Better gas mileage to boot.

 

[JumpinJackFlash]

O.k. I gotta chime in here. When I hear "budget" I'm thinkin' maybe a hundred bucks or less?

The "bone yard" has plenty of 2100/2150 Motorcraft carburetors as they came on many, many fords cars and trucks. Do a search on 2100 series carb on this web-site or google it and you'll find plenty of info to point you in the right direction. They are as good as, if not better than a weber and are easy to rebuild and tune. You will require an adapter (Mr.Gasket sells one) for around $20 bucks.

Change the carb, perform the nutter by-pass ( search on this site) and perform the TFI ignition upgrade ( again, you can find it on this site) and you'll have an entirely different jeep. The torque will pull you back in your seat and the ignition upgrade eliminates the slight misfire you might be experiencing at idle.....(provided the carb & timing are set right of course).........

Good luck.....

JJF

 

[JumpinJackFlash]

O.k. I gotta chime in here. When I hear "budget" I'm thinkin' maybe a hundred bucks or less?

The "bone yard" has plenty of 2100/2150 Motorcraft carburetors as they came on many, many fords cars and trucks. Do a search on 2100 series carb on this web-site or google it and you'll find plenty of info to point you in the right direction. They are as good as, if not better than a weber and are easy to rebuild and tune. You will require an adapter (Mr.Gasket sells one) for around $20 bucks.

Change the carb, perform the nutter by-pass ( search on this site) and perform the TFI ignition upgrade ( again, you can find it on this site) and you'll have an entirely different jeep. The torque will pull you back in your seat and the ignition upgrade eliminates the slight misfire you might be experiencing at idle.....(provided the carb & timing are set right of course).........

Good luck.....

JJF

 

[HIX]

depending on how mechanically inclined you are. jumping jack flash has a good route you can take. my buddy did the same thing. works fine. HI HOOD got the best route if you want it fixed sooner. weber has the whole kit.....and you get what you pay for. i feel your pain with that crappy cater carb. it should be shot and burned. either way you go there are plenty of ppl to help you thru the process on this sight.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

WK550-34 Weber carb kit about 300 bucks.

NEGATORY BIG TIME ON THE WEBER!!!!!. Weber’s are crap if you don’t get a good one out of the box. Redline, the Weber parent company has a warranty disclaimer on the outside of the box that reads “NO WARRANTY WHATSOEVER”. In my experience, they mean it. I have a long story I won’t bother you with but the butterfly valve was stuck closed when I got the carb. I paid another $20 to ship it back to them only to have the tech guy tell me all he did was “smack it with a screwdriver”; not the way I want my expensive precision piece of equipment treated and when I got it back it still didn’t work.

Do a Motorcraft 2100-2150 and a Nutter Bypass.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/jn-ignition99/

 

[dekr]

I don't know much about the different carbs, but you can cut down on the vacuum hoses after nutter'ing it and rerouting around all the parts no longer necessary.

 

[JumpinJackFlash]

The nutter by-pass is essentially wiring in 2 wires from the ignition module directly to the distributer which by-passes the computer controlled ECM. Very, very simple and will allow you to get rid of all your vacuum lines except for the essentials such as the vacuum advance on the distributor, vacuum controlled air dams in the stock air cleaner ( if you are going to retain the stock carb etc.) and power brakes.

With this set-up you can retain the stock carb ( although not the best choice) but if budget conscience may be one route.

You may find that you will have to retard the timing slightly (normally 8 degrees advance is recommended) because initial advance if set at 8 may cause excess "kick back" on the starter when starting the vehicle due to increased initial advance on the distributor after performing the nutter by-pass. I have mine set up 6 degrees advance which solved this problem. This is a very quick and easy adjustment with a timing light.

See my previous post on this topic. Very cheap yet effective improvements.
First do the nutter by-pass (soldering in 2 wires), then the TFI ignition upgrade (about $100 ), then if you want the extra mile,find yourself a Motorcraft 2100 (plenty used), weber or Holley carb.........

This forum has all the info you need, just search each topic.

Good Luck,

JJF

 

[buckshot500]

You can add me to the list of folks who are hollering at you!

Do the MC2100 deal, it's easy & all the cool kids are doing it too.

The adapter is Mr. Gasket # 1937 & is available through Advance Auto.

 

[leedurr]

I did the Weber a few years back and it was a big improvement. If I had to do it all over again I would use the MC2100 though cause it is cheaper and more reliable if you ask me. Don't get me wrong " IF YOU GET A GOOD ONE" Webers are great. Thier tech department sucks big time.
Now instead of the TFI upgrade I did the HEI upgrade. If you get a chevy 250 strait six hei distributor and then change the gear on it you just created your OWN DUI ignition setup. I think I spent a total of fifty bucks to make it. Then you can remove all of the crap under the hood. It is a simple 2 wire hook up and parts are cheap and in abundance.

 

[89 jeep yj]

After I did the Nutter bypass and the TFI ignition upgrade, I drilled out the venturi in my stock carb to 0.032". I than unhooked the pulse air and unplugged the carb. The jeep runs alot better now. This may fix your problem( like it did mine ) or give you the time to save for what you really want.

 

[wilco40]

Hi everyone- Go check out my "XJ 2.5 YFA Nutter Bypass Plus" on Cherokee Forum or NAXJA. Didn't know about this site when I posted it. It IS the budget YFA /PulseAir/Nutter tech article. Use it & hand it out, let me know what you think! As soon as I can, I'll cut & paste it to here. MERRY CHRISTMAS! wilco40

 

[54cj3b]

Replace it with a fuel inj setup out of a xj bout $150. from junk yard

 

[Sine Deviance]

Replace it with a fuel inj setup out of a xj bout $150. from junk yard

Good luck finding one. After Cash 4 Clunkers the vast majority of them are now cubes.

 

[wilco40]

Hey Sine Deviance- No kidding about C4C. Damn near cried every time they showed one on the tube or in the papers going into the crusher. Nothing like helping make stuff rarer (pricier). FWIW, I've got an '86 w/TBI, and it's not going anywhere except to work, hunt, or fish! The mod I wrote about is easy, just time consuming. There's about $100 involved, the bulk of it was spent on carb kit & fuel PSI regulator. Each setup has its up/down sides, but let's face it, if I wanted HP, there'd be a 258/4.0 in both of them by now.

 

[Sine Deviance]

Hey Sine Deviance- No kidding about C4C. Damn near cried every time they showed one on the tube or in the papers going into the crusher. Nothing like helping make stuff rarer (pricier). FWIW, I've got an '86 w/TBI, and it's not going anywhere except to work, hunt, or fish! The mod I wrote about is easy, just time consuming. There's about $100 involved, the bulk of it was spent on carb kit & fuel PSI regulator. Each setup has its up/down sides, but let's face it, if I wanted HP, there'd be a 258/4.0 in both of them by now.

Yeah, two things...

1. Cash 4 Clunkers was essentially a big scam. The government has not paid back any of the dealerships/junkyards that were involved (yet.) Because of this, many smaller dealerships and junkyards have gone under. This makes it even harder to find a good used car/good used parts than it would have been if they didn't go under. The government got a good deal in Cash 4 Clunkers -- essentially free money in the form of good steel. The rest of us, however, got screwed. The worst part is, most of us never even saw it coming.

2. If the engine in my Jeep ever dies I'm going to swap it with something that is still in heavy production. Like a 350 smallblock or somesuch. That way parts availability won't be a problem for at least another decade or two.