cherokee long ARM build

[desertrunner]

Sooo I've been doing a lot of research on building my own long ARM system. Ive been fabricating for about 4 years now and am working towards my getting a welding cert in LA. I figure I can do it pretty easy.

I plan building the generic 'y' link style radius arms using 2" OD .250 wall tube for the main lower arms with johnny joints and poly bushings from poly performance. And the upper arms will be 1.5" OD .120 wall ( mainly cause I have 20+ feet sitting in my yard) not quite sure what style of joint I should use for these arms where they connect to the lower arms.. I know I want it adjustable so I can set my pinion angle. I have some 3/4x7/8 Heims sitting around. Could I use those or would I want some kind of poly bushing so it could flex?

for the frame brackets I have several 8 foot pieces 3x3 angle made from quarter inch plate. I'm hope to build them similur to rustys clamping style brackets. I'll keep the stock transmission crossmember but I'll make the brackets extra long to make sure it spreads the force out. Weld some good tabs made of 1/4 plate to those brackets to mount the arms to.

Paint everything black and stick it all together with grade 8 hardware.

All said and done I think I'm looking at under 300 bucks to build them... Much better than the 600+ everyone wants...

So I've read through several other forums and threads on the subject and I think I've got most everything.. including making them the right length so it meets the bumpstops where they should. If I'm missing anything please tell me. Ide hate to have to figure it out on my own after doing it wrong..

Thanks in advance for any help!

One final thought. If it works out real well ill be building the same thing for my cousins Cherokee... After that and I have the kinks worked out and I have some jigs built would anyone be interested in a set for around 450 bucks? Getting married soon and would love to make some extra cash

 

[Utah_jeepster]

The only thing I would argue you out of is using heim joints on a daily driver. The heim is a fantastic joint with more flex than anything. Heims are your first choice is your making a crawler or a race buggy that you have time to inspect the joints for play after each race. But the one draw back is its a non-greasable/rebuildable joint. This makes the joint to susceptible to wear and if you get water in it it carries micro grit into the joint making it wear prematurely. This is the main draw back to the heim on a daily driver.
Currie, Metalcloak and several others make a rebuildable, greasable johnny joint in the same range and cost that will serve you better.

 

[desertrunner]

Thanks.. I figured it wouldn't be best to use them

 

[Catoctin Jeep]

I agree with Utah. I make control arms in my shop and I use Polys at one end and the other end either polys or Johnny Joints. This combination works very well with a daily driver, weekend abuser.

 

[desertrunner]

I definately plan on poly joints at the axle end and johnny joints at the frame end for the lowers. For the uppers ill keep the stock nudging on the axle but where the upper connects in the middle of the lower I need to make a decision. All I know is I want it adjustable and aparently not a heim

 

[desertrunner]

So I got started on the lower frame mounts... But will have to hold back on buying parts due to an officer pulling me over for speeding... There goes my 300 bucks.

 

[Catoctin Jeep]

That stinks

 

[desertrunner]

Yeah so in several weeks ill hopefully have some cash again... Also my cousins xj has the pegeot trans.. noticed the crossmember was several inches forward... Any one know what companies who sell long ARM jigs do for jeeps with these transmissions in the case of long ARM mounts?

 

[desertrunner]

Got the lower frame mounts finished and painted today