My jeep died, didnt respond to cpr. Help!

86copper

New member
Hey guys, new to the forum and i hate to start out in the tech section but...i have a 86 cj 258 t176 factory carb..i ve had it for 2 months. I bought it, drove it a week and i came home one day and as i pulled in my oilpsi gauge was going from 0-10 at idle. I cut it off. It wouldn't start up, kept backfiring through intake/ carb. So i pulled the engine and rebuilt it. It was in horrible shape. Had to bore 40 over just to clean it up..i put the motor back in..guess what. Blows gas out the carb and wont crank..ive set timing and i had a friend check after me. Im clueless. She has fire. The machine shop shaved a little off the head..idk if thats a problem or not. I torqued all rocker arms down like the haynes manual said. Lined up timing marks on timing gears during build. All new internals. I think ive told you everything. I really want my dang Jeep. Please help. Thank you.
 

Im confused, how is it blowing gas out the carb if its not cranking? or is it a electric fuel pump? Sounds like something electrical is not hooked up right or not at all. Even if you had the timing installed 180* out it would still crank. the gas out the carb could be a stuck float in the carb or blown power valve, backfiring through the carb will blow the power valve pretty easily.
 
Im confused, how is it blowing gas out the carb if its not cranking? or is it a electric fuel pump? Sounds like something electrical is not hooked up right or not at all. Even if you had the timing installed 180* out it would still crank. the gas out the carb could be a stuck float in the carb or blown power valve, backfiring through the carb will blow the power valve pretty easily.

The engine will turn over, but will not run. The fuel pump is mechanical. The previous owners did a hack job under the hood wiring. I have yet to find a diagram that would show me the map of the complete ignition system. Can i take pics and post and you tell me if somethings out of place? If so how do i get them posted?
 
Hey guys, new to the forum and i hate to start out in the tech section but...i have a 86 cj 258 t176 factory carb..i ve had it for 2 months. I bought it, drove it a week and i came home one day and as i pulled in my oilpsi gauge was going from 0-10 at idle. I cut it off. It wouldn't start up, kept backfiring through intake/ carb. So i pulled the engine and rebuilt it. It was in horrible shape. Had to bore 40 over just to clean it up..i put the motor back in..guess what. Blows gas out the carb and wont crank..ive set timing and i had a friend check after me. Im clueless. She has fire. The machine shop shaved a little off the head..idk if thats a problem or not. I torqued all rocker arms down like the haynes manual said. Lined up timing marks on timing gears during build. All new internals. I think ive told you everything. I really want my dang Jeep. Please help. Thank you.

if it is cranking over and blowing gas out carb it could be 180% out of time , try pulling the distributor and and turning it a 180%
 

if it is cranking over and blowing gas out carb it could be 180% out of time , try pulling the distributor and and turning it a 180%

Okay, just did that. Still she turns over. I still have fire and am getting gas on the plug. Could it be the ignition module even though im getting fire? Im honestly stumped. Maybe im an idiot and its timing. Ive set it and reset it and checked it. Idk what else it could be. Thanks to you guys who chimed in.
 
yes it could still be in the firing as it may be to weak and if the plugs have flooded real bad they can prevent it also , and replace that ignition module if its the original could very well be a problem and it could be your distributor if you had another I would try and swap just to try that , , I know its frustrating as I ran into this on my 340 challenger build and it would flood an spit and was the ignition box and new ones were bad out of the box , I installed a gm module and bypassed the mopar box and and ballast an upgraded my coil which worked great but that is a different animal,, oh yea you might try a new coil ,, I know its a pain but the cheaper things to try first , if your sure of your timing which sounds like you did a good rebuild then its a component thats got it screwed up,, as you stated in your first post it had quit and wouldnt start back , your weak oil pressure should not have stopped it from starting unless the motor locked up, you rebuild the motor but still have the original issue,,get your motor up on the compression stroke and put your distributor back in properly and then find your bad component , it may take alittle work and guessing but thats part of it sometimes as there is no way to test these components but you have covered the timing pretty well and time to move on as if your like me I tend to dwell and over think sometimes mooooh-( and you might even consider the nutter bypass after you get it running as this will help it run smoother
and look here may help http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
http://www.civilianjeep.info/Ignition/V-8Distributor/DuraSpark01.gif
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/jeep06.html


you might even consider the hei conversion
 
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Only way I know how to post pics is off photobucket. copy and paste them. The gas coming out the carb is a stuck float I bet. tap on the carb with a screwdriver handle or something like that and see if it free up. If not you will have to take it apart, which I would do anyway because it could be power valve. If you have fire this carb problem will prevent it from starting, and if you have been trying to start it for a few days you could have fouled plugs,(doubtful, but possible). Get the carb under control then figure out the rest. The carb problem is #1 right now because if everything else was fine it still wouldnt start with its overflowing like that. DONT BUY ANYMORE PART UNTIL THE CARB IS FIXED. Do you have a test light, or multimeter? you will need those if it still wont start after the carb flooding if fixed. You say it has fire at plugs, I bet it will start then after the carb is taken care of.
 

yes it could be the carb if it is really putting out alot of gas while cranking , if its just spiting alittle gas then I wouldnt think so and since we cannot see it in person you would have to determine whether it is indeed a stuck float ,and a spark tester may help you ,they sell cheap ones or you can make one , this link shows how
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/spark-tester.html





I am trying to up load a picture with this post the way the forum has it on this site if that doesnt work then photobucket works
 

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you can post pictures with the post , I didnt have any problems

Okay guys this morning i took the icm to advance and there tester said it wasnt any good. Bought a new one, same prob only now after reading you guys comments im heading toward the carb. I cleaned my plugslast nite bc they were soaked with fuel. Today there not getting any fuel. Thank you guys alot. I really appreciate your help
And i do have a meter and test light.
 

As soon as the fuel-Carb problem is figured out, I'd recommend changing the oil. Reason being is if it's really flowing that much gas you might have gotten a fair amount of gas mixed in with the oil. Excessive gas in the cylinders can wash past the rings, and then drain down into the pan. It can then thin the oil down, and if driven too much you could be looking at damaged bearings Etc, or another rebuild. Changing the oil is cheap insurance.
 
As soon as the fuel-Carb problem is figured out, I'd recommend changing the oil. Reason being is if it's really flowing that much gas you might have gotten a fair amount of gas mixed in with the oil. Excessive gas in the cylinders can wash past the rings, and then drain down into the pan. It can then thin the oil down, and if driven too much you could be looking at damaged bearings Etc, or another rebuild. Changing the oil is cheap insurance.

Gotcha. Yeah i will def. Do that. My carb is
Broken up top. Needless to say i want to get/ upgrade to a better carb. Is there a 2 bbl you guess recommend that DOESN'T require the mcu anymore? And that wont cost an arm and ( if thays possible in the jeep world)lol
 
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