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Haven't replaced one on a 99 but the idler on the ones I have done, really can't be done by hand unless you are really really strong. That's the one that keeps the tension on the belt to keep it from falling/being thrown off. You may have one that is on the way out because the spring is so weak...

After replacing my first radiator and the transmission lines leaked, I've since used teflon tape without any leaks.

Are you relying on a computer or are you manually calculating MPG?

I couldn't resist: YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING!

Just to add to the last great post. Be careful with that first screw. I did not remove it all the way and tore the headliner when I pushed the console foreward.

Is is the star wheel? Or is it the arm that engages the star wheel? I guess it really doesn't really matter! You must have both in order to have properly functioning rear brakes!

I would be concerned with the electric fuel pump. The last time I messed with carberators was in the early 70's. Then we had a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the engine block. I'm not sure about the pressure from a mechanical versus an electric fuel pump. You can adjust fuel/air mixture on a...

I haven't done drums in awhile and not on a jeep so I'm not the expert. But maybe I can shed some light. Is the rubbing coming from one side or both? I am assuming you have bled the brakes since replacing the cylinder. Did you adjust them manually and then brake in reverse a few times since I...

If all they did was recharge to 12 volts that means it had 12 volts when finished and that is all. You have to take it to a place where they load test it, i.e. like Autozone or Advance, etc.etc. The same goes for the alternator. Once both are tested to be good, you can go further in the...

There is a fix but not to prevent it only to repair it! Calipers do go bad. Is your brake fluid black (hydroscopic, it absorbs water)? If so you need to flush or bleed the system before you install a new caliper. Suck out the brake fluid from the plastic resevoir too and clean it as best as...

My best guess is that it is due, based on age and mileage? If you get a year out of it, might be worth it. Have you made an offer under a $1000?

I want to say it was a 1990 Taurus. Went through about 10 cars with seven kids, so the memory is going like the cars did! I'd go with an old inner tube, if they still exist, and a zip tie.

Yes, I have seen one but I can't remember what vehicle had it. It was a very thick rubber. If I remember the vehicle I'll post.

I can just about guarantee that at a minimum the head gasket is blown with the coffee colored oil. I've experienced it twice on a Ford and Mercury but not on a Jeep. Not sure about the cracked block but you'll probably find out after the head gasket replacement. If I had to bet I would bet...

Did you ever find out what the problem was?

Best case, blown gasket. Not so best case, cracked head. Worst case, cracked block. Not an easy job but not an impossible one for the home mechanic. The head needs to be inspected for cracks and flatness. A machine shop around here does it for $50. (includes pressure testing and milling if...

Is this the one with the little blue hose that attaches to the 12 oz cans of R134 and has a little round plastic gauge that has red/blue/yellow color markings? I have never seen one with a trigger! If you plan on only having AC for a couple of summers, I guess it would be OK but would probably...

Initially they would not shut off at all and it was a problem with the liftgate thinking it was still open. Now they stay on for 20 to 30 seconds.

Did you replace the alternator? A new battery can be killed without an alternator. Pull both the battery and alternator, take them in and have them tested!

I would first remove the belt and spin each of the pulleys by hand. Look for a wobble and listen for that sound. This should either verify or rule out the pulleys producing the sound.